J Ackerman
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01/17/2018 at 8:42 pm #44640
J, maybe there is a defect on the 1000 grit paddle. I’d phone Wicked Edge. Maybe they will replace it. My preference would not be to jump from 800 grit to 1500 grit on a normal regular basis. In your situation where you’re, just learning, and trying to determine if the “bad”1000 grit is keeping you from achieving the results you’re looking for then definitely, have at it! Skip the 1000 and see if the 1500 helps. Also, I get my truly sharpest edges after I finish with the diamond stones, wipe the steel clean to remove any sharpening debris, then strop the edges with the Wicked Edge Leather Strops.
Cool, thanks for the advice! I sharpened a couple more today… when I was closing the clamp with the lever, I recently started hearing a pop from the mechanism when it was about 75% closed. Is that normal? It was almost like it was in a bind and I don’t want to break it.
01/16/2018 at 7:38 pm #44616J don’t rub those diamond stones together too much it’s not good for them. I meant only that specific spot where you saw or felt the clump of diamonds. J It sounds like you need a magnifying device to help you to see what your doing. There are lighted jeweler type loupes, hand magnifiers and inexpensive USB Microscopes. All are very helpful and hard to go with out once you’ve used them. Maybe take your time and work on less different knives and pay more attention to detail to learn the ropes of your Wicked Edge. Get one knife just how you like it before taking on the next one. You will have use for the LAA. Don’t sweat buying it. Work out a routine that includes all the steps to insure your knife is clamped tight and securely and the angle adjustment is set, tight and securely locked. This will become part of your routine or technique. This is a very repetitious matter, sharpening knives. Precision and accuracy require repetition. For the Shun, yes the bevel is small because the knife is ground thin and narrow at the knife edge. Also a 16º bevel is smaller than say a 12º bevel on the same profile knife. The Shun does widen as you get closer to the shoulder, and as you remove metal, so try to use very light touch/pressure when sharpening your knives to avoid removing more material then is necessary. Slow down my friend. Take your time, it’s not a race.
So, I have had some time over the last several days to sharpen a few more knives. I have been able to put a consistent edge that can shave paper on some even poor quality knives.
After doing about 4 or 5 more knives, I am still getting more “scrubbing” (best way to describe it) on one of the 1000 grit paddles and not the other. I can’t tell visually any difference between the two like I can compared to the 100/200, but there definitely seems to be a difference.
I just decided to skip the 1000 grit and go to the 1500 grit, so it would be consistent.
Overall, I am impressed with the results I am getting though.
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01/06/2018 at 7:12 pm #44458Thanks all, for the advice! I tried to redo a few knives today with much better results based on the suggestions. One problem I had with the marker method was that the knives I was doing today, I had already reduced the angle on the bevel a good bit with the whetstones. Therefore, I couldn’t really trust what I was seeing since it wasn’t stock.
I just used the research, which sounds like the info on angles provided by the makers is all over the place.
I ended up getting one side settled in at 17.25* and the other at about 17.30* (I didn’t figure out the micro adjustment until later ?).
I figured out the micro adjustment for the Santoku and dialed it in @ 13.5*. I never really got a burr at that angle and it it didn’t pass the paper test (must not have removed enough metal at that point, as Tom was saying). I then went to 14.5* and got a burr pretty quickly (I guess I have a double bevel now) I went through the different stones and could shave with it, it felt like. It passed the paper test too.
I was slicing an apple in thin slices, and it seemed like it was slightly tougher to break the skin of the Apple (could be my imagination though, I guess).
I kind of wish I hadn’t gotten the LAA now.
I figured out the micro adjustment only after the nut on the end kept falling off. I would tighten it on the screw that was sticking out and then I would look down after 30 or so passes and it had loosened or fallen off (changing the angle). Am I doing something wrong?
@Marc – I checked my 1000 grit stone and it looked to be on straight. I also rubbed them together and that seemed to help a bit. The sound still seems a little different, but better than before (grinding). I can’t really tell much difference in the grit by feel.
On the Shun knives I have, the bevel is very hard to see as you mentioned. Should I just put it on 16* and go with it? I think I might get frustrated using the marker technique on it. Btw, is the bevel so small because the shoulder is thinner?
Thanks again, everyone for all the help! Good info!
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01/06/2018 at 6:01 am #44453I basically bought the WE to keep my kitchen knives sharp and maybe sharpen some for friends and family. The Wusthof set I have all have 14 dps except the Santoku which is 10 dps. I have two shuns that the specs show 16 (Santoku and boning). And I just recently got a miyabi Santoku that is 9-12 dps.
For the Santoku I was using first it was my mom’s cuisinart that the specs showed 10-15 dps. I just targeted 12.5 dps since it was in the middle of the range. Maybe I got the wrong system?
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01/06/2018 at 5:50 am #44452I’ll check it out today.
12/24/2017 at 2:08 pm #44150Looking at the Systems again, I think the F&S pro might be the one I should get, since I am not going to have a designated place for it. Are the systems the same? If I was to ever decide I wanted to mount the F&S pro would that be possible?
Thank you
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12/24/2017 at 12:45 pm #44148Sounds good… I’m sure I’ll have more 🙂 I’m planning on ordering this week. Thank you
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12/24/2017 at 12:42 pm #44147Good deal, thanks for the info!
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