Pete

[Pete]

Update: I just used the Tormek small knife jig, and it worked at 15 degrees OK.  And yes, I recorded where I clamped the knife holder, and also the knife. I used it for one of my Moras and it gave me hair-whittling sharp at 15 degrees per side.

So I took the plunge with my beloved Benchmade 940 and used the Tormek jig for that too.  Apart from some blade flex, which I controlled by using VERY light strokes on the WE130 stones and strops, I managed to get that one scary sharp too.

Thanks for that suggestion – the Tormek small knife jig now lives with my Wicked Edge kit 🙂

 

3 users thanked author for this post.

wickededge, Marc H, Organic

[Pete]

Thank you again.  It’s almost like a “race to the top”, isn’t it?  The higher we make the holder, the longer the rods need to be, and the higher we go, the progressively smaller reduction in angle we achieve.  An exponential curve, in fact 🙂

Maybe when I’ve polished enough metal off the chuck jaws, I’ll be able to get the perfect 15 degree angle? 😉

I’m wondering also if the Scandi grind on the Mora knives may be contributing, due to the tapered nature of so much of the blade? The chuck jaws are clamping onto something that is angled on both sides, so some tilt to one side wouldn’t be difficult, despite me trying to get it straight.  I’ve even used slivers of wood as shims to try to get that.  But I still have one of the world’s best polished chuck jaws…!  And that’s despite making sure I’m not clamping onto the Scandi-ground portion of the blade.

Ah well – it’s all a learning experience.  The edges I’ve achieved on knives with bigger blades is to die for, though – it’s just that all my Mora, Hultefors, Buck, Spyderco, and other bush knives have smaller blades.

 

1 user thanked author for this post.

wickededge

[Pete]

Wow – that was quick 🙂  Thank you for the reply.  Yes, a riser block would make sense based on the geometry.  I have my WE130 mounted on a heavy piece of thick (2″) timber, and some non-slip material glued underneath.  And yes, I do have a Tormek T8 system, including the small knife adapter – I might take your suggestion and try that.  Adding a riser block would require me to use much longer screws up through the base, so the Tormek thing may be the way to go.  I’ll give it a try.

Thanks again for such a prompt response – appreciated 🙂

 

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