David Hamilton

[David Hamilton]

My last girlfriend was a pet groomer. they use the same scissors as hair stylists. I looked into sharpening them (she pays thousands each year for sharpening and new scissors) I saw that it was far beyond what I wanted to get into for equipment and skills to do.

I will be retiring in a couple years and I will probably buy an RV to circle the country a time or two. I have toyed with the idea of posting a Knife sharping service sign where I park. Ideas change a lot, but My current business model is a sign that says something like

“Knives sharpened here, stop by for samples and quotes”

low end kitchen knives could be sharpened on my work sharp mini belt sander for a few dollars for a kitchens worth of knives,

better knives could be sharpened on the Wicked edge for a buck or so per inch, Uber expensive knives, I would probably pass on for now.

time and experience would adjust things, but I would really want to avoid being sued for botching someones $1,000 custom knife.

[David Hamilton]

Nice Pens. My Shaeffer PFM just went to the shop for repairs. Until it returns, I am stuck using only my Pelikan M800, or one of my many Parker 51’s.;)

[David Hamilton]

how about a base that holds multiple risers and arms so I can do my 19″ saw back bayonet without constantly moving it, and hoping the base doesn’t tip over? and how about an attachment that lets the saw back edge of it be sharpened? 🙂 It seems it shouldn’t be much more then twice as hard as sharpening a serrated knife.

[David Hamilton]

Here is one of many sites.

Item 62062 is probably about what we are looking for, but you are paying 5.00 shipping for a 5 cent item. a local hardware store might be better.

I am guessing that an 8-32 cup point set screw will work the best, 1/2″ length is what we are replacing. You will also need a 5/64 allen wrench to tighten it.

As I indicated on a previous post, the cup point runs a risk of buggering up the threads on the fine adjustment, even more so with the allen wrench instead of a thumb screw. In a quick search I haven’t found thumb screws in this size with anything other than flat point.

There are tons of other choices on the web, but most vendors want to sell 100 or more (still only 4.00 bucks or so) if you have a local hardware store, it will probably be a better choice then buying on line

[David Hamilton]

Clay

I’ve only sharpened a couple knives On my arm upgrade, and I am certainly no expert. I found the screws on the square shaft (lets call it the course adjustment) did not fit in the detents, but they did not move. on the other hand, the set screw to lock the angle adjustment (fine adjustment) did tend to losen and change the angle before I noticed it, no mater how much I tightened it by hand.

In a few weeks I can get some cup point set screws from work (I might go to a hardware store to get some sooner) My only minor worry using cup points on the threads is that they might bugger up the threads.

I doubt that they will have the same size allan wrench as the tool that comes with the WE, but that is no big deal. I can just drill another hole in the base and put the right sized allan wrench in it.

[David Hamilton]

The black screws are not stainless. A magnet sticks strongly to the threads. the knurled thumb screw appears to be plastic

[David Hamilton]

There is some interesting and cool science here, but maybe a better definition of mirror like might be a term borrowed from coin collecting (hey, they work with metal, not glass). {You can skip down to the last paragraph if you wish to skip the background}

rare coins absolutely can NOT be polished without destroying it’s value. a coins grade relates to the condition it was in the moment the dies struck it. anything that happened after that is damage, The value of a damaged coin is often orders of magnitude below undamaged coins (though honest wear lowers the value but doesn’t destroy it).

There are many companies (some of them highly respected) that grade and encapsulate rare coins. coins are rated on a scale of 1 (you can tell it is a dime) to 70 (unobtainable perfection) with a few qualifiers sometimes used after the number. Depending on the coin, the difference between say, a MS65 and a MS 66 grade might be 10, or even 100’s of thousands of dollars.

—Read the next two paragraph only if you want to know more about coin grading—

Coins can be graded either Mint State 1-70 (MS1 to MS70) this means the coins were made for commerce, the coins in your pocket probably average MS 45 or so, when you get a brand new new nickle out of a fresh from the mint roll, that is likely a MS 63 or so.

coins can also be Proof’s, they “can” be graded PF 1 to PF 70, though the lower grades are rare. Proofs are usually minted for collectors. they are made in small quantities, they use specially prepared blanks and are stamped much slower and with much more pressure so they have much more detail. If a proof is in a low grade it was probably stolen from a collection and spent, more likely, on the rare time a proof got circulated, it will lose it’s proof diagnostic and become an MS coin

Proofs are usually mirror finished, but not always. but they are pretty much always specimen strikes

————-!!were AT info for the KNIFE guys now!!

SORRY IT TOOK SO LONG TO GET HERE, BUT THIS IS WHAT THE COIN GUYS SAY

An official grade qualifier from the most respected grading company is DMPL That qualifier can add Thousands to the price of a coin. It stands for Deep Mirror Proof Like.

the coin that earns that DMPL is not a proof, it is proof like, but by definition, news print can be read from 4 inches away under good (but not direct light).

____________________________end of the line

So, I propose knife nuts follow coin collectors. If we can read news print 4 inches away, it is a mirror. discuss as you wish

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