Bradley
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12/12/2013 at 11:52 pm #15988
Kudos here as well to Bob. He’s helped me on a few occasions and went above and beyond what anyone else would have done.
I ordered two pairs of glass paddles for taping paper on and it works perfectly. I didn’t even know it was an option until Bob spent awhile with me on the phone.
11/30/2013 at 8:56 am #15915Correct! Acute means “sharper” of an angle.
11/21/2013 at 12:41 am #15843If you have one of those pocket blow torches (they run on lighter fuel) I would gentle heat the stud the expansion should be enough to free it . It may have bonded itself through the use of different metals or it may have some locktight on the thread a title application of heat from a fine flame can often free locked nuts or screws . Stainless screws in aluminium masts are a favourite often they are painted over as well you can alma here the fused are crack free when this is done it saves the heads of fastenings or the threaded part from shearing . If you can get your hands on one it will be worth a try .
When you replace it use something like Tuffgel or some sort of stuff between the two metals.Well I tried… I ended up rounding off the screw and dinging up the thumb stud but its no biggie. I will send it back to BM at some point to have it fixed. That said, I did manage to clamp it down solid right up against the thumb stud and it was less than a degree off so I’m happy.
With that said with it being mounted so far back would the bevel be an issue? The bevel will be about 3 times the size as the base at this clamp location.
11/21/2013 at 12:05 am #15839I cannot get the thumb stud off.. I have the bit to fit it but I don’t have a way to clamp down the other side from spinning. I’ll try at it some and see if I can get it off.
Thanks for the input though!
One question though, with the it being clamped so far back will the bevel be way off at the tip or would it be worth it for a secure clamp?
11/11/2013 at 8:16 pm #15744I’ve never used the WE 1/.5 stropping paste. You could also try the diamond sprays offered here.
I’m tempted to get a spare set of bare leather strops and just use some cheap polishing compound for doing cheaper knives that I don’t really care about perfecting the edge on. Mostly just to put something more polished than a 1000 grit stone but not as fancy or expensive or tedious as the 5/3.5 strops. I’m always overly careful about making sure its not cross contaminated and that it doesn’t get metal elsewhere on them.
11/11/2013 at 7:29 pm #15741Welcome to the forum.
Good list,,,, keep in mind though the grit/micron size is only part of the picture. Type and how they perform is also part. For example, a XXXg diamond stone will perform different and leave a different finish than the equivalent waterstone. So, you may not want to switch between abrasive types as you go thru a progression
I have the Pro-Pack 1 and was wondering what would be a good in between for 1000 grit and the 5/3.5 micron strops. I was thinking of going with a 1200/1600 ceramic and maybe a finer polish like a 1/.5 micron strop. Any ideas?
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