Roman

[Roman]

Update.

WE helped. Sorry, cannot go through details.

Stay sharp.

3 users thanked author for this post.

Mark76, Organic, Marc H

[Roman]

Marc H wrote:

I have considered using these Atoma Diamond Plates. The only way I could see cutting them is with a water-jet and I think that would out-price the effort.

I saw them. FYI Chefs knives to go have them for less.

There was a gentleman aka oldawan, who was selling these plate, cut to we size. it doesn’t look that he does it anymore.

http://www.oldawan.com/sharpen/atoma-diamond-plates-for-wicked-edge/

still two plates will be $200. I can buy 3 WE 100/200 sets, which will last a long time.

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Stephen, SalisburySam

[Roman]

Marc,

I do not think that I have any accomplishment, which worth to share.

My entry to knives and sharpening wold happened quite opposite than yours. I became serious about knives (mostly pocket knives) in 2005. I bought Spyderco Sharpmaker along with my first decent knife. Sharpmaker is a great tool for maintaining edges, but reprofiling is very time consuming unless you have diamond or cubic boron rods. I tried many less expensive methods and spent a lot of money until I bought WE few years ago. It is expensive, but made life easier and delivering better results.

Six Gyutos are impressive. You must love to cook. We have only one 8″ Kanetsune. Great knife. My wife and I love it. We have it for at lest 5-6 years and I still micro-beveling it. But I know that big job is coming and I am nervous about it. I had Spyderco Santoku, but didn’t like it as much as Gyuoto and gave it away. Most of my sharpening is pocket knives with steel like VG10, S30V, S35Vn, 204P, S90V and S110V. All of the deserve thin edges.

 

[Roman]

Marc H wrote:

Got ya. Low angles mean wide bevels, that requires you’re removing lots of steel and a wide swatch of steel.

Agree, but what is the point to pay for good steel and have thick edges?

[Roman]

Marc,

I would have no problem to replace 100/200, if both of them would be worn.

I use my WE only to reprofile blades. After that I microbevel and maintaining on Sharpmaker. Last weekend I reprofiled Spyderco Centofante3 (VG10, 2 mm hollow grind) to 12 degrees per side. It took me about 4 hours. I think that this is excessive.

I also tried 50/80 couple years ago, but decided to stay away from them. Even 80 were removing stock too fast.

I just sent e-mail to WE, may be they will come out with some good ideas.

3 users thanked author for this post.

wickededge, Marc H, sksharp

[Roman]

Gentlemen,

Thank you. So far all good ideas. I wish I could buy a pair of 100/100. Probably the first step will be to call or e-mail WE.

 

2 users thanked author for this post.

wickededge, Mark76

[Roman]

tcmeyer,
Thank you for idea.

[Roman]

Another option would be to put micro-bevel. I put micro-bevels on all my pocket and kitchen knive. IMHO it makes life much easier and sharpening time much shorter. Than reprofile as needed.

[Roman]

It’s been made clear to me here that everyone doesn’t have the same experiences. I think that the break-in process is the big variable.

This is good to know. Thank you. I expected break-in process to be consistent, but all depends on manufacturing process and I am not familiar with it. It is sad to say, but I am giving-up on 50/80 stones. I just cannot use them the way I wanted. Prior to WE, I was using Congress Tool stones. The coarsest was 50 grit aluminum oxide (Ruby), which I used to apex during reprofiling, without any damage to the edge. So I didn’t expect issues with WE Ultra/Extra coarse. Visually it didn’t look as rough as 50 or even 80 WE diamonds. But this is different makers. Possibly they determine grit differently.

[Roman]

I was apexing my knives with VG10, S30V, S35VN and S110V with 100 grit and never had chips on the edge. But I use light pressure.

[Roman]

Probably you are correct and I am trying to use these stone not as it was intended

[Roman]

Today I had very unsuccessful day 🙁 . I started with about 300 strokes of 50 grit on my pakistani knife, just to brake in stones a little more and check, if I notice any difference, followed by 300 -400 strokes on 80 grit and than 200 on 100 grit and 200 on two grit. At this point surface finish wasn’t a big concern. The concern was the condition of the edge. After 200 grit chipping was along entire edge. I removed chips using 120 grit silicon carbide stone, which took me about 30 passes plus deburing. After that I decided to use only 80 grit and up. Removing chips created significant flat on the edge. But it took only 100 strokes on 80 grit to create a apex. I switched to 100 and than 200. Chipping still was bad. About 20-30 more cuts into 120 silicon carbide and edge is straight. I followed the same routine: apex with 80, than 100 and 200. Still chips on the edge, couple of them really big. The blade of my pakistani knife looks much more narrow than just two day ago 🙁 .Whole test took about two hours. No big deal: I was watching Criminal Minds.
Probably tomorrow I will stone edge again and will work only with 100 and up. Should be fine, but you never know. At this point I have no desire to use 50/80.

[Roman]

I started to like your idea distressing the edge right before 400. It make a lot of sense, especially if you starting with such coarse stones like 50/80 and creating like in my case micro serration on the edge. I certainly will try this tomorrow.
Merry Christmas to you and your family.

[Roman]

Are you distressing before sharpening and than again after 400 grit or once after 400?

[Roman]

Zamfir,
Thank you for help and thoughts.
Usually I an disstressing the edge with 3-4 passes of 600 stone. When all marker is removed, still a long way to go to create an apex, especially S110V. This would make difficult to stop before apex because the only way for me to see it – is creating a burr. I didn’t see a problem using 50 grit to create a burr on cheap and soft old pakistani knife. I want to redo both of my Natives S30V and S110V using 80 grit. Friday looks like a good day for this.

[Author]

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