adam egert

[adam egert]

I’d like to see to. I ordered the cheep, microscope I posted.. Will see.. I will use my high speed USB to blowtorch modem and connect to the iPad and see how that goes. Any pics of the groove would be cool

[adam egert]

That is where I ordered it from.

how is it? Does it really work?

[adam egert]

So I found this.. Can it be?

http://www.focalprice.com/HT631S/60X_LED_Light_Microscope_Loupe_with_Currency_Detecting_Silver.html?utm_source=SM&utm_medium=Youtube&utm_campaign=SM_Youtube_HT631S%2B

[adam egert]

I am probably a bit a way form a micro scope. don’t have a pc to dedicate. The loop will would out fine as my bench has some really good light and I have been using white fill cards to flood the knife evenly with light. At some point I will succumb to GAS and buy one but better get a real functional feel for the system. I’m beginning to see that much of the trick is in feel that only comes from experience. I got a mirror on my first day but look if I sent my knife to a pro and it came back like I did mine I would be disappointed.

I keep getting new tricks with every knife I do. I bet you never stop learning as in everything. The bear folder I did for my son after this conversation proves it. It is really mirrored. Im sure it can be slightly better, but for my purposes at this point as an enthusiast/ hobbyist, non pro sharpener, I am confidently with my results. Now..

If a friend gives me a presentation blade with an extremely high mirror convex re curve I think I would pass fro a while LOL.

[adam egert]

Yup four got lost only a minor in math should have gotten the full degree rofl.

You all were spit in the cross hatch made all the difference. Needed more work on easier stones but the gouged lines were probably the issue with the stones being 2/3 worn in over all length so not dead stones just last 1/6 of the ends not broken in well so a long stroke might leave a deeper line.

Tried out the cross hatch in and old bear Damascus half serrated edge and in the non serr portions got full mirror. It’s the knife I’m giving my son this weekend as his first edc. Now will be ubber psyched. I will watch the crk vid. Won’t touch the reall thing until I get it down.

As for the convex to the brous I have been picturing going as steep as I did I don’t want to blow through all the metal to get directly to 20. It’s a work horse for me main bang it out knife. Nit a self Defence blade for me moved to fixed so it would look better as convex that audible bevel I think. I’m up for suggestions. In sure I will dull it this weekend with outdoors wirk this weekend

Again thanks all. The system is amazing. Wil get the 30x and a microscope. Will be way to anal about my new Elmore rat on the way.

https://www.google.com/search?q=sayic+rat&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en&client=safari#facrc=_&imgrc=A8ToKISzZXoLJM%253A%3Bundefined%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.warriorswaytx.com%252Fuploads%252Feditor%252Fimages%252FRat1.JPG%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.warriorswaytx.com%252Fstore%252F43%252Frat-training-package%252F%3B2352%3B1568

[adam egert]

Thanks guys will do that I had a feeling it was unresolved gouges from previous stones. I have been working pretty light .

1) I have 10x goggles but its tough to see the deeper scratches in the non mirror finishes in the 400-800 range. Is 10x enough?

2) I have a feeling its uneven ware on my stones that are used more in the center 2/3 thirds and an occasional full stroke causes this. I don’t press hard.

3) The edge is bloody sharp. I had screwed up the blade the day I got my new arms by not having the digital angel meter. So I have just made the decision to keep the angle on left to right off by .3deg.. so be it the full angle on this knife is 32deg. it is wholly mortifying. Short blade very aggressive point. can puncture slice and chop well. I am a little concerned I went to steep on the knife for heavy use so the next time I ruin the edge I think I am going to go convex with it and bring it back to the 19-20 range. Before I do this I will pick all of your brains. If anyone has a full vid of going convex I would love to see it a link would be greatly depreciated 😉 I have 3 chris reeves will not touch these until I work this out really well on some test stock. I have a few raw 1/8″ d2 blanks here gonna make a couple of throwing knives/tools and might practice on that for the convex… Been hand con vexing axes for years with files and stones in a vice but you know what a fine knife needs to look like.. This ain’t for hitting dried red oak fro splitting LOL

5) single sided Japanese blue and white steel with RW hardness in the mid 60’s… I have whet stones but never was good at that . The chosera stones might be a good addition fo that but the arrc sweep gets me nervous on very strait edges. I have read the articles but ti stills makes my pants shake. any good vids on that?

6) and MOST IMPORTANTLY!I just want to pass along an extra hardy thanks to you all here. Your responses and care to a newb is refreshing. Have not felt that looking down the nose thing you get on forums of experts here and it speaks volumes for the community I hope to be giving back to in the coming years.. Thanks again!

Adam 🙂

[adam egert]

here is the mirror so as to not show the sctatches

Image link:

[adam egert]

yet another fun just incase neck blade..

[adam egert]

You pretty much got it! In the narrative below the video I believe I put some links to threads here that will explain it in more detail and in different ways… hope they help you. Please let us know how much difference you end up finding and if it corrects your issues!

Will do. It makes all the sense in the world. On a side note i’m impressed with the mounting of the WE on the panavise has to be hard to get that level…

All and All I love the WE. It really does an amazing job. I have had many different sharpening systems and this is by far the best. I got it for my own personal use as I have a large amount of cutlery and tools. My stones are about broken in. You can see that there are far fewer scratches left in the mirror edges. I have to clean the lower grit stones to get rid of pesky debris. I can see that my ability is getting much better as I go from knife to knife. I am just starting to get a feel for where a stone is done and when to move on to the next. My mirror is getting better and better. I have been taking everything to that polish for practice and stone break in, then backing off the kitchen utility knives to 800 for a little bite.

I have yet to do any of my canto or Japanese single sided knives.. I will watch a few more vids for that..

[adam egert]

wow thanks so if i get this correct the basics are to

1) clamp full flat ground or other into the vise

2) zero out cube

3) measure both sides of blade and direction of cant… for each side

4) add up total of degrees with +/- for directions in your case its a difference. It should be one LOL

5) divide /2 = offset

6) adjust for target angle per side add offset or subtract to bring back to center. in your example back to the right (subtract from left add to right)

Man that is a huge help! thanks so much

[adam egert]

Had this thread open so I post here . If there are no responses I will post as own thread.so it has become obvious that great hand made knife makers can make knives that are not purely symmetrical. My Brous Blades Silent Soldier folder with a Whancliffe edge is one of them. The initial bevels are not even, so either the knife cant be centered in the jig, or the overall apex as from the factory is not centered over the spine.

I had tried to sharpen with my pro 1 with sad results.. ordered the Pro2 arms and got to measuring with the cube. I had to make some decisions so I decided to sharpen the sides at the respective angles I had created with the Pro 1 rather than really take away a bunch more metal. I’m curious as to how you pro’s attack this problems up front. I obviously exaggerated problems by screwing up angles.

Would you find the steepest angle on the knife and equally match that on the other side or take the shallowest and go with that? Or something that this newb doesn’t know…

Granted the bevels , finger whole and concave top blade bevels render it pretty complex looking. I used some tape on the blade to clamp not foam.

picture of finished edge below

Image link:

[adam egert]

Some factory edges have lots more that one degree difference. My Spyderco Delica came with almost 7 deg diff. If you’re that anal about the angle, the 1200/1600 stones won’t satisfy you lust for the mirror finish. Don’t sweat the small stuff.

I can see your point but it could be off way more than the 1 deg. I don’t have the meter to test yet but it is a huge difference you see it in how deep the bevel goes up the side of the knife its like 1/32 or more of a difference. I have to even it out.. I guess that is anal! LOL never thought I went that way ROFL.. as for the 1200/1600 that should help a little as the step between the 1000 and 14u strop. The stones are still breaking in a little though. i have a dullish mirror with some slight scratches from earlier stones. In a few days the thing should settle out I would guess but the cheeping out on not having the pro pack II arms was a big mistake…I learned my lesson. I know They are out the listening, I would only sell the upgrade arms if I were a dealer. I think it will save some problems. I trusted the measurentent on the adjustable arm guides. Big mistake.

I am getting more and more of a believer in getting as close as you can to a serviceable factory angle and then just either average or try to go for the whole angle that is even closest to factory or for application. Live and learn..

ONE QUESTION FOR THE EXPERTS

Stropping. On long knives fo you strop in one complete arc or break the knife into pars to strop . I can see how easy it will be to cut the strop with drop points and the like on a non compensated arc. Any ideas would be really appreciated… Part 2 do you recommend going to glass with the tape strops?

[adam egert]

1. what do you mean “point and kick”? not sure I follow here

2. use brake kleen from the local auto store… or any acetone based product. or you can use a magic eraser.

hope this helps! oh, and I never use the alcohol on my strops… you will be fine if you choose not to =) it won’t hurt them. that stuff evaporates so fast anyway i don’t know how long it would stick to them.

~Originally posted by razoredgeknives

*Posted by Administrator due to database issue

Well to late about the alcohol they are all pasted up 🙂

as for the point and Kick thing I had a jpg that talked about parts of a knife. Not being a pro of any kind I just used the nomenclature as in teh drawing here it is.. So if there are beter words to describe stuff please clue me in…

[adam egert]

Hey all.. Just ordered the Pro 1 with Pro2 stones. Looking forward to the arrival of the set. Joined the forums to do a bunch of learning. Have plenty of trash knives to practice on before I start touching my fine cutlery. Thanks for all help up front.

Adam

[adam egert]

Hey all.. Just ordered the Pro 1 with Pro2 stones. Looking forward to the arrival of the set. Joined the forums to do a bunch of learning. Have plenty of trash knives to practice on before I start touching my fine cutlery. Thanks for all help up front.

Adma

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