Workstation layout

[John Haley]

A slight update to my setup. Based on the hex driver used for the micro adjustment shown earlier in this thread, I bought a fluted dowel, cut it in half, drilled a hole in it, and then inserted and super-glued a cut off 1/8″ hex shaft into it. Wish I’d trimmed the shaft a little shorter, but this is how it will remain. Notice that I now have the foam insulation strip on both the front and back edges of the granite. No more slamming into the edge when the stones fall.

[tcmeyer]

Lookin’ good Quoddy99. I was looking for something similar to the WE double-ended allen key tooly, when tonight I found a very similar tool (but for Torx screws) in a Jantz catalog. I went to the manufacturer’s site and they have ’em listed for less than $4 (plus who knows how much for shipping costs). Maybe the handles are a little too big.

http://www.wihatools.com/300seri/334serin.htm

I already have the screwdriver-like tools from McMaster.com which are a little too long, but are really comfortable to use.

Rather than using a nylon or brass-tipped set screw (I see you’re using the same screws as for the angle blocks) I simply cut a short piece of electrical wire insulation (as in very short and no pun intended) and stuffed them in under the original phillips head screws. When tightened down, it does a great job of acting as a brake on the micro-adjust screws. No chance of bumping anything out of adjustment.

[Ron Migdal]

Hello. I am brand new here. Just received my PP2 yesterday. I assembling it, my vice key broke. Looks like the metal had a serious cavity. Anyway, your locking levers look beautiful but I can’t find them using the Mc-Carr search function. 🙁 Could you please tell me the M-C name for them or part number? Thank you, in advance. 😉

[tcmeyer]

The trick is to know the general category, which turned out to be “handles.” You’ll find them at:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/120/2230/=rvkpoa

I chose the 303 Stainless version, a bit pricey at $17.93 each: part no. 6522K28

A die-cast zinc version is only $5.

I added a threaded phenolic knob to let me spin the screw more rapidly but I had to modify it. I think voodoodaddy had a better solution. Try to find his version, which was the inspiration for this.

If I had it to do over, I’d try it without the knob first. You can always add it later.

[tcmeyer]

As long as I have the McMaster site open, I reviewed my knob choices. I chose the only knob they had which was threaded for 10-32.

Next time, I’d chose a stainless version in 10-24, drill out the threads, make it a through-hole and epoxy the knob to the handle’s screw. Part no. 60205K64
It doesn’t need to be a strong joint, as you’ll only spin it with the tips of your fingers.

[Ron Migdal]

Thank you for sharing your acumen. It is much appreciated.

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