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What In The World Should I Charge?!

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  • #24053
    Steven N. Bolin
    Participant
    • Topics: 47
    • Replies: 456

    A guy at work wants these knives fully repaired. He knows what’s involved and will pay me for my time… But I don’t even know where to begin in terms of price.

    Any thoughts?

    ~Steven

    #24054
    Daniel maloon
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 209

    Hi Steven I’ll tell you that the chip will take longer to fix than the tip. It depends on the edge you plan on putting on it and thinning the blades. What’s your time worth?

    #24055
    Josh
    Participant
    • Topics: 89
    • Replies: 1672

    woooow Dan is def. right… do you have a belt sander? That one will not cut the same after you are done as the edge will be much thicker. make sure he understands that!

    #24056
    Steven N. Bolin
    Participant
    • Topics: 47
    • Replies: 456

    Yeah, I told him the knife with the chip will never be the same and he totally understands. I also told him I’ll have to A) remove steel from heel to tip until I reach the bottom of the trench in the blade, and b) thin out the knife a whole lot. He said he plans to use it as a general utility knife.

    Josh, unfortunately my belt sander was sold to to space issues in my tiny studio apartment so thinning it out will have to be done by hand… Which will take a long time.

    So… knowing it will take along time for both, one more so than the other…. What should I Charge?

    What would YOU GUYS charge?

    #24057
    Josh
    Participant
    • Topics: 89
    • Replies: 1672

    Yeah, I told him the knife with the chip will never be the same and he totally understands. I also told him I’ll have to A) remove steel from heel to tip until I reach the bottom of the trench in the blade, and b) thin out the knife a whole lot. He said he plans to use it as a general utility knife.

    Josh, unfortunately my belt sander was sold to to space issues in my tiny studio apartment so thinning it out will have to be done by hand… Which will take a long time.

    So… knowing it will take along time for both, one more so than the other…. What should I Charge?

    What would YOU GUYS charge?

    Well personally since I have a belt sander I would charge:

    • $3 for the chipped tip repair
    • $10 for the chipped edge repair

    but if I had to do it by hand at the request of the owner, it would be much higher as that is more time and time = money. But if he is/was fine w/ you using one then it’s not his fault you don’t have one so I would try to find a compromise. Don’t forget to charge for the actual sharpening (I charge $11/knife for wicked edge sharpening if I am simply matching the edge bevel, way more if having to reprofile).

    #24059
    Steven N. Bolin
    Participant
    • Topics: 47
    • Replies: 456

    Here’s what I quoted:

    Broken Tip Repair $10
    Chipped Edge Repair + Thinning $20
    2 Wicked Edges $20

    TOTAL $50

    __________

    He expected it’d be much more so he’s happy paying $50… I hope I’m not taking advantage of him, it’s just seems like it’ll take a pretty decent amount of time to get things done.

    #24060
    Josh
    Participant
    • Topics: 89
    • Replies: 1672

    Here’s what I quoted:

    Broken Tip Repair $10
    Chipped Edge Repair + Thinning $20
    2 Wicked Edges $20

    TOTAL $50

    __________

    He expected it’d be much more so he’s happy paying $50… I hope I’m not taking advantage of him, it’s just seems like it’ll take a pretty decent amount of time to get things done.

    That’s great! Yeah if I did all that by hand it would be in that range but probably a little more so i don’t feel like it is taking advantage of him at all =) Remember… on that chipped tip remove metal from the spine side not the edge side so you don’t change the blade geometry. But I’m sure you probably knew that!

    #24062
    Daniel maloon
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 209

    Josh is right. I personally wouldn’t sharpen/thin a blade like this on a belt and would would tell the customer exactly what my reasons were. I would then tell them their options and pricing accordingly. For folks that don’t want to pay to have me do all that is needed by hand , I then recommend that they contact Josh. He is skilled in using a belt and I know he will take care of any problems if they happen. I think you should try to take them on with the condition that you may keep them for awhile until they are finished. Take your time and don’t rush yourself. This will be a valuable learning experience that will help your skills and determine what your time is worth in the future.
    This reminds me of my first large chipped blade . It was an old 12″ kitchen knife that a guy had tried to open a coconut with..1/2 chip dead center of the blade haha

    $50 is a very friendly price if your are doing that by hand

    #24063
    Steven N. Bolin
    Participant
    • Topics: 47
    • Replies: 456

    I used the contours of both knife edges to trace out potential new profiles.

    Overkill?

    ~Steven

    #24064
    Josh
    Participant
    • Topics: 89
    • Replies: 1672

    No i think that’s a wonderful idea… gives you an exact goal of where you need to go. Knife makers do this all the time, it’s called a scribe line when you are putting the primary grind in =)

    #24065
    DeeR
    Participant
    • Topics: 3
    • Replies: 20

    Wow! It’s incredible to me (not surprising but incredible) that you guys can even do a fix like this. When you re-profile to this degree how do you do it? Do you grind the edge down by grinding the sides? Going back and forth (side to side) until you have taken off enough metal to get to your scribed marks. Or do you just grind down the old edge by grinding perpendicular to the edge? I presume you need to do all this metal removal before you even try to start grinding a new bevel. Hopefully that question makes sense. I don’t know how else to ask it

    #24066
    Steven N. Bolin
    Participant
    • Topics: 47
    • Replies: 456

    Wow! It’s incredible to me (not surprising but incredible) that you guys can even do a fix like this. When you re-profile to this degree how do you do it? Do you grind the edge down by grinding the sides? Going back and forth (side to side) until you have taken off enough metal to get to your scribed marks. Or do you just grind down the old edge by grinding perpendicular to the edge? I presume you need to do all this metal removal before you even try to start grinding a new bevel. Hopefully that question makes sense. I don’t know how else to ask it

    Great questions!

    Repairs like this kinda pick up right at the tail-end of the knife making process. What I mean by this is, as an owner of a particular knife that you picked up in the retail setting, you really only need to maintain its sharpness because everything else (making a new knife) has been done for you. Now, this can be rather simple – Keep it sharp. Or, it can be rather complicated and inexhaustible – Welcome to the Wicked Edge Forum B)

    Such repairs call for reprofiling the actual geometry of the knife itself while at the same time keeping in mind the geometry of the edge throughout the entire process.

    In order to do repairs like the ones you see in the photos, typically we take some sort of an abrasive to the steel in a fashion that is perpendicular to the blade steel. Typically, this removes the material faster and leaves you with clean 90° angles where you’d expect them to be. Now, whether these abrasives are dealt with by hand or by machine, the fact remains they are still abrasives doing what abrasives do… Removing material from an object.

    Once the overall blade geometry has been achieved through the use of abrasives such as sandpaper on a block, sheet of glass, or on a belt fed through a machine, we then move on to the geometry of the actual edge itself… This is really why YOU are here and participating as a member on this forum… That being said, please stay involved and you’ll learn a ton from guys like Josh, Dan, and many other awesome cutlery lovers :woohoo:

    Hope this helps a little!

    #24067
    SHVentus
    Participant
    • Topics: 14
    • Replies: 64

    Well, lawyers charge $500-$1000/hour. What’s your time worth, and how long will it take you? 🙂

    #24068
    Steven N. Bolin
    Participant
    • Topics: 47
    • Replies: 456

    No i think that’s a wonderful idea… gives you an exact goal of where you need to go. Knife makers do this all the time, it’s called a scribe line when you are putting the primary grind in =)

    Oh, wow! Knowing that little tidbit makes me feel a lot better and much more confident.

    Thanks Josh!

    #24069
    Steven N. Bolin
    Participant
    • Topics: 47
    • Replies: 456

    Well, lawyers charge $500-$1000/hour. What’s your time worth, and how long will it take you? 🙂

    Haha. Well, I’m not defending certain inalienable human rigths, but simply getting something sharp for whatever it’s worth 😉

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