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we100 pro pak :(

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  • #46624
    Karl
    Participant
    • Topics: 2
    • Replies: 16

    Received it a couple of weeks ago from Amazon and just want to throw in in a box with all the other diamond stones, etc and send it back.  I received my we100up4 today… but can’t get the original joints off.  And the granite base wobbles… so I have to rely on that degree thingy.  I was always able to get good results with the Spyderco Sharpmaker and the Lansky… And thought I could get great results with this system.

    #46625
    tcmeyer
    Participant
    • Topics: 38
    • Replies: 2098

    I’m not sure from your post exactly what your problem is.  I infer that you had some sort of problem that has frustrated you.  Now you’ve bought the spherical rod-end couplings and are wondering why they don’t seem to fit.  I deduce from this that you bought the WE100 system, which has a non-adjustable mount for the rod-end coupling.  Not having actually seen this type up close, I can’t be sure of how to remove the original couplings.  It’s possible that they’ve been Loc-Tited in place and might require the addition of heat to break them free.  Failing that, I suggest you call WE customer service for their recommendations.  They have an excellent reputation and I’m sure they can help you out.

    Meanwhile, I’d like to help you solve the original problem that caused you so much frustration.  Perhaps something was assembled incorrectly?  Most new users are awe-struck by the results they get even with their first few knives.  Try to explain your problem in detail so that we can help you.  Perhaps some photos?

    You say that the granite base wobbles.  Is it the base that’s wobbling on the table?  Or is it the blue base that wobbles on the granite base?

    Some of us long-time users have abandoned the detents in the horizontal angle bar so that we can clamp the guide rod assemblies in any position.  We flip the bar over to put the detent pockets on the back side and flatten the tips of the bar locking screws.  We use the digital angle-cube to show the angle, then move the guide-rod assemblies to set the angle, or very near to the angle, before locking the assemblies to the bar.   For most systems, at angles around 20 dps, three threads on the micro-adjusts will produce about one degree of angle change.

    Meanwhile, welcome aboard Karl.  We look forward to getting you past any problems you might encounter.

     

    • This reply was modified 6 years, 4 months ago by tcmeyer.
    3 users thanked author for this post.
    #46627
    Karl
    Participant
    • Topics: 2
    • Replies: 16

    I will certainly flip the bar over, that is GREAT advice.  The granite base wobbles.  Of course that is an easy fix.  Originally, I did not want to spend $800 on a system… hindsight is 2020, wish I would of bought the Gen3.  If only I would of visited this forum before making the investment.  You fellas are a wealth of good information!

    #46628
    Marc H
    Moderator
    • Topics: 81
    • Replies: 2753

    I believe you need to change the “L” bracket also for the upgrade.  The models non-micro angle adjustable and the micro-angle adjustable use two different mini “L” brackets.

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-Its)

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #46631
    tcmeyer
    Participant
    • Topics: 38
    • Replies: 2098

    Marc:  Karl’s upgrade is numbered WE100UP4, which I infer to be a declaration that it will work on a WE100 rig, upgrading it to a micro-adjustable WE120 level.

    Karl:  I have only the “paper stone” bases – not the granite, but there should have been four little feet to be attached to the bottom.

     

    #46632
    Marc H
    Moderator
    • Topics: 81
    • Replies: 2753

    Karl’s upgrade is numbered WE100UP4, which I infer to be a declaration that it will work on a WE100 rig, upgrading it to a micro-adjustable WE120 level.

    Tom you may be correct, but…the picture that is illustrated for upgrade part: WE100UP4 is only the threaded guide rod end ball joints screws for $35.  Every other upgrade kit pictures all the included parts in the upgrades.  I believe your inference is correct, it will work, but it doesn’t include all the needed parts for the desired upgrade.  There are more differences between the WE100 and the WE120 then just the micro-adjustment ability.

     

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-Its)

    #46635
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2939

    @karl – I’m sorry to hear you’re so frustrated but I’m sure we can help you get to a place where you’re really enjoying the sharpener and getting great results. As tcmeyer mentioned, more info will help us troubleshoot whatever issues you’re having. Is your granite base missing one or more of its little feet? Can you share a picture of the joints you have so I can understand the issue you’re having getting the micro-adjustment joints installed?

    -Clay

    5 users thanked author for this post.
    #46636
    Karl
    Participant
    • Topics: 2
    • Replies: 16

    Thank you for the help, Gentlemen.  I am embarrassed to say, I might be missing a foot on the base… will check when I get back to the house this weekend.  And, Clay, I will also post pics of the joints.

    5 users thanked author for this post.
    #46662
    Karl
    Participant
    • Topics: 2
    • Replies: 16

    Attached are the upgrade elbows for the WE100, not sure how to install them.  And… my base did not come with feet.

    Attachments:
    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #46702
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2939

    Attached are the upgrade elbows for the WE100, not sure how to install them. And… my base did not come with feet.

    It definitely should have come with feet. Please send an email to support@wickededgeusa.com and we’ll get some headed your way. It’s easy to switch the ball joints. The current set you have just screws into the L-bracket, so you just have to remove that with the large end of the Vise Key and then thread the new ones in by hand until you get most of the way through, then flip your vise key around to use the small end and fit it into the little hex pocket at the end of the shank and continue to tighten it up until it’s flush with the L-bracket. Then thread the jam-nut onto the part of the shank that protrudes through the other side of the L-bracket.

    -Clay

    3 users thanked author for this post.
    #46705
    Marc H
    Moderator
    • Topics: 81
    • Replies: 2753

    Marc: Karl’s upgrade is numbered WE100UP4, which I infer to be a declaration that it will work on a WE100 rig, upgrading it to a micro-adjustable WE120 level.

    You were right Tom, I stand corrected. Simply unscrew it.

     

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-Its)

    1 user thanked author for this post.
    #46706
    Karl
    Participant
    • Topics: 2
    • Replies: 16

    Sweet Jesus… I just made my first wicked edge 🙂  Thanks All!!

    4 users thanked author for this post.
    #46848
    Karl
    Participant
    • Topics: 2
    • Replies: 16

    So frustrating… I get the angle dialed in and about halfway through the sharpening process the jam nut falls off 🙁

    #46849
    Marc H
    Moderator
    • Topics: 81
    • Replies: 2753

    Karl, hold the micro angle adjustment screw in position, with the adjustment hex tool, after getting your angle set with your cube. Then while still holding screw in place with the hex tool still inserted, turn the knurled jam knob tight against the mini L bracket, as tight as you can.  Then double check your angle with the cube again.  If you find your angle has slipped off more than is acceptable, do the whole process again.  The final step always has to be turning the knurl locking knob down tight. Any turning of the screw afterwards will negate the locking process and position the screw where it can move.

    Marc
    (MarcH's Rack-Its)

    1 user thanked author for this post.
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