WE-130 Questions????
- This topic has 4 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 03/11/2018 at 4:19 pm by
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Can you provide pics? I think I had the same issue with dragging lines on the blade really far down the below the Bevel. I talked to Kyle and he said to be careful not to miss the bevel and let the stones hit the blade which makes sense but he also said this,
“when using your coarse stones, use a slightly wider angle than what you’re trying to set your edge to. For instance, if you want a 20 degree bevel, use your 100 and 200 grit stones at 21 degrees, and then change your angle to 20 and do the last bit of profiling with the 400 grit stone. What’s happening is the large diamonds on the surface are scratching below the bevel, and you finer stones aren’t reaching those low points. As you continue to use your sharpener your stones will break in and you’ll notice this is less of an issue on every knife.”
The Spyderco is the first knife I sharpened with the WE130. You can see where I let the stones drag without even realizing it would be a problem.. when I took the blade out of the clamp I was bummed but all I could do was laugh at that point.
Each knife I’ve done has come out better and better and with either less to no scratches.. Even when I’m really careful, I still end up with out about one or two (benchmade)
Ill field one of the questions. you can use of piece blue painters tape or I use a small piece of the non slip rubber drawer liner that walmart sells in a roll for a few bucks. Handy stuff as it has many other uses around the house too.
Anyone know how I remove my business card posted by error? not what I call a very user friendly site IMO.
I use this card for my mailing address when I have a knife shipped to me. I need to remove it please.
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Barry, The scratches on the side, in my experience, are usually from inadvertently dragging the stone across the knife side. As your experience, skill level and technique improves you’ll see it’ll be less of an issue. The method Kyle suggested seems like it is a good idea but you still need to be careful to not let the stone drag against the knife side. In the mean time, like expidia suggested blue painter’s tape applied to the side of the knife is quite helpful. Some forum members like to use silver aluminum foil tape. This tape is thinner and sticks very well and has a finer edge. I find it a bit harder to remove then blue tape. I don’t like to use the tape between the clamped jaws to help hold a knife more snuggly. I’ve found it can compress and push the knife’s position. Another shortcoming of tape is the top edge is a point of collection for sharpening debris and metal dust that falls off. It can make a marred edge when removed.
I just try to be careful to wipe the blade free from sharpening debris and metal dust. The initial wipe I do is always just the bevel and up along the entire knife, just a little thumb width section at a time, along both sides, to knock off the loose abrasives. Then I go back wipe the knife again with a soft cloth and sometimes with rubbing alcohol.
I always clamp my knives with a small square of real leather chamois folded around the blade as it’s inserted between the jaws. In conjunction with the tension adjustment on the WE130 the chamois gives me a very solid clamp with out marring the steel. I can usually get 2 or 3 sharpenings with the same patch of chamois before I need to replace it. I purchased a Chamois cloth in Walmart Auto Care Dept four or more years ago and I’m still cutting on the same cloth. So it’s pretty economical to use.
Marc
(MarcH's Rack-Its)I like chamois or Moleskin for clamping the knife but it has nothing to do with preventing scratches like those. I never tape the blade, to messy and time consuming without any real advantage that I could come up with. I’ve used and use stops on the rods so the stone can’t drop below the level of the edge.
The chamois or Moleskin will solve the issue of the clamp scratching your blade and you will find they clamp much more securely.
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