Vegetable and tofu slicing knife

[Ken Buzbee]

😉 Strange, could not find any reference to the Chinese chef’s knife in the knife data base. I wonder what a good angle and finish would be for it 🙂 .

Smart a$$ is perfectly acceptable (even appreciated 😉 )

In answer, straight up, it will depend on the steel. With this Nakiri and given my experience with Aogami Super, it can go very, VERY thin. Thinner than WEPS can handle, even with the low angle attachment. 10° inclusive? Maybe lower? And polish as high as you can go. It’s a push cut knife.

Ken

[Leo Barr]

I like both Choseras & Shaptons they are both very hard stones !
The blade is a gentle convex thinning steepening a little at the edge as you say these blades are thinned I spent about 4 hours thinning my Honyaki much as I like the WE this is not the type of knife that is suited to it the steel on my Honyaki is forged grade 1 blue steel and it is the sharpest knife I have in the kitchen probable next sharpest is a Hap 40 Santoku again a very thin blade which has a convex edge I put on it.

[Mikedoh]

Opinions on angles for the cck 1303 . Listed as “high carbon”.
I have Choseras to 10k, so I should be good finish wise.

[Leo Barr]

I think if it is not going to be used on hard squashes and mainly push cutting you can probable go quite low 15Ëšon the micro bevel . Ideally if it needs thinning it should be a convex thinning. The edge can be a bevel edge since if it is thinned enough or perhaps already thin enough it will probable only need Choseras possible if it is good on the edge only 10k since the bevel should be a micro bevel so if you can get to the edge with 10k just use that – the less you take off the edge the thinner it will stay and the sharper it will be.
I think that you will not need to thin it for a while so just aim at a micro bevel since you are sharpening it on the WE just try to remove the absolute minimum of steel.

I would say the thinning angle will be less than 10Ëš and then even if I were doing it freehand I then increase the angle at the edge probable by about +5Ëšwhich you could do in increments on the WE to get a convex edge but the edge bevel should be so small it really does not matter if it is a convex bevel or not.

[wickededge]

Leo has got it right. I thinned mine down to approximately 9.8 degrees per side. At that angle it was marvelously sharp but didn’t hold up well. I added a 13 degree (per side) micro-bevel and it’s done great. I wrote about it on my blog, here: http://sharpeningtechniques.blogspot.com/search?q=cck

-Clay

[Mikedoh]

Thanks guys. Appreciate the input.

Clay, I’m guessing you used the low angle adaptor, or is the blade high enough to get to ~ 10 dps with the pp2?

This style blade is nice for blocks of tofu, getting romaine lettuce into reasonable sizes to bite. Like to make length wise cuts
on romain, then cut cross wise . Then to salad spinner for wash and dry . . And into zip lock for storage.

TIA
mike

[wickededge]

The blade is wide enough to hit those low angles without help.

-Clay

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