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Stropping Angles

Viewing 15 posts - 61 through 75 (of 85 total)
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  • #20969
    Ronald Cindia
    Participant
    • Topics: 2
    • Replies: 6

    I’ve been moving the angle in 1 degree on each side when I use the balsa and then another 1 degree in when I use the cow leather strops. Seems to work pretty good from what I can tell lol.

    #21255
    Eating Pie
    Participant
    • Topics: 5
    • Replies: 36

    Would this type of “issue” also occur with softer stones like the Choseras?

    I was considering another thread, but I’m seeing some convexing similar to described here. And I’m dead on at-angle all the way through the 10K, then the finest ceramics — I think they’re 1u? — after that.

    -Pie

    #21291
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2940

    Would this type of “issue” also occur with softer stones like the Choseras?

    I was considering another thread, but I’m seeing some convexing similar to described here. And I’m dead on at-angle all the way through the 10K, then the finest ceramics — I think they’re 1u? — after that.

    -Pie

    If your Chosera stones aren’t flat (you can lay them down on a flat surface with a light behind them. If you see any light coming through underneath, they’re curved) they will definitely create a convex edge.

    -Clay

    #21298
    Eating Pie
    Participant
    • Topics: 5
    • Replies: 36

    Thanks for the suggestion. They’re flat. I lap them before use so I can take advantage of the slurry.

    I might start (or search for) another thread, I think my issue is how I hold the stones more than the stones themselves.

    -Pie

    #21300
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2940

    Thanks for the suggestion. They’re flat. I lap them before use so I can take advantage of the slurry.

    I might start (or search for) another thread, I think my issue is how I hold the stones more than the stones themselves.

    -Pie

    Good thought about how you hold the stones: it might be play between the inside diameter of the through holes in the handles and the diameter of the guide rods.

    -Clay

    #21328
    Geocyclist
    Participant
    • Topics: 25
    • Replies: 524

    Thanks for the suggestion. They’re flat. I lap them before use so I can take advantage of the slurry.

    I might start (or search for) another thread, I think my issue is how I hold the stones more than the stones themselves.

    -Pie

    Hey Pie, I thought this too, but they still wear uneven. I always rub them together to make some slurry, and thought this would keep them flat.

    I check one day and they were wearing.

    To check (and also level) mark a cross hatch pattern with a pencil all over the stone. Soak stones in water first. Use your 1000# diamond, or lapping stone if you have it. Lap a few strokes to see if the pencil marks rub off evenly. After some wear the ends and edges will most likely be higher than the middle parts. To level just keep lapping until the pencil is gone in all areas.

    #21329
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2940

    Another way in which the Choseras could be causing the issue is if they are flat but vary in thickness from one end to the other. If one end is thicker, the two ends will be at different angles to the blade and will create a convex edge.

    -Clay

    #21415
    CliffCurry
    Participant
    • Topics: 42
    • Replies: 461

    What I am thinking is that if you are sharpening a knife for edc where you would normally put on a micro bevel to give the edge more durability, maybe you just sharpen it all up and keep the leather at the same angle and that automatically gives you the 2 deg more angle to give you that enhanced the durability of the edge?

    Aloha and thanks to everyone for this amazing forum. Talk about getting thrown in to the deep end of the pool. I love it and joke with people that I am taking online college courses in metallurgy…..they don’t get it. 😛

    The same thought as Zamfir comes to mind as I have been studying the angle vs durability vs force discussions here on other threads. My beginning understanding is that the increased angle of the micro-bevel improves durability & decreases edge failure while an overall thinner apex angle allows for less force and therefore longer usability. Finding the balance for these things is fascinating and what I myself am experimenting with now on a large cleaver.

    I guess my question is same as Zamfir….despite the difference in edge toothiness from a lower grit micro bevel vs stropping, wouldn’t the increased angle at the apex from convexing due to strops have the same benifits to increase the durability and prevent failure at the edge?

    #21416
    Eating Pie
    Participant
    • Topics: 5
    • Replies: 36

    Another way in which the Choseras could be causing the issue is if they are flat but vary in thickness from one end to the other. If one end is thicker, the two ends will be at different angles to the blade and will create a convex edge.

    Good replies, all. I do the crosshatch when lapping, so I got that covered. I will rub my stones together if the session goes a little long, but always start with full lapping.

    It’s possible the stones are off, though I think not. However, what would I do in that case? How do I get them “unramped” or back to parallel with the platen?

    Thanks!

    -Pie

    #21431
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2940

    Another way in which the Choseras could be causing the issue is if they are flat but vary in thickness from one end to the other. If one end is thicker, the two ends will be at different angles to the blade and will create a convex edge.

    Good replies, all. I do the crosshatch when lapping, so I got that covered. I will rub my stones together if the session goes a little long, but always start with full lapping.

    It’s possible the stones are off, though I think not. However, what would I do in that case? How do I get them “unramped” or back to parallel with the platen?

    Thanks!

    -Pie[/quote]

    First you’d need to measure the thickness at each end with a micrometer if you have one, if not then at least a very good ruler. Then you could cover the thin side with tape temporarily to protect it while you lap the thick end of the stone down to the thickness of the thin end. At that point, you’d need to lap the whole stone a little to get it flat all the way across.

    -Clay

    #21436
    Zamfir
    Participant
    • Topics: 17
    • Replies: 346

    So with all this talk about maintaining the Choseras and checking flatness I decided to check out my diamond plates.

    How should I fix this? the plates seem dished.

    Attachments:
    #21452
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2940

    So with all this talk about maintaining the Choseras and checking flatness I decided to check out my diamond plates.

    How should I fix this? the plates seem dished.

    You should give us a call so we can replace them: 877-616-9911

    -Clay

    #21460
    SHVentus
    Participant
    • Topics: 14
    • Replies: 64

    A question I have is: If you flip the stones over and place the other sides together, the 1000/1000, does the light shine through the center as with the 800/800, or does it shine through both ends?

    #21461
    Zamfir
    Participant
    • Topics: 17
    • Replies: 346

    The 1000 side does the same thing but just not as much. light in the center not at the ends.

    I have a new set on the way. Now I have a bunch of nice knives to sharpen..but these need to be broken in again..dang it. Will have to find some more beaters to sharpen I guess.

    #21462
    SHVentus
    Participant
    • Topics: 14
    • Replies: 64

    Hummmm. My feeble interpretation, which may be fully wrong (wait for Clay’s explanation), would be that since that is where most of the sharpening takes place (the center), it wears more there. Maybe the diamonds at either end haven’t been worn in, or as much, leading to the light at the center. This is where my original question came from about breaking in the stones by scrubbing them on a flat steel plate – yielding a more complete and uniform break in and wear pattern. I could be all wet. YMMV. 🙂

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