Storing Leather Strops
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- This topic has 41 replies, 16 voices, and was last updated 02/19/2015 at 2:07 am by Steven N. Bolin.
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02/01/2015 at 11:16 pm #23051
Cross contamination prevention is a huge deal for me!
Used this jig while in the process of mirror finishing:
I picked up a grit, on the jig’s surface, after well past thru dirty mirror stage with 2000 grit, moved onto 14u:
Already had clarity and close to blemish free, but had to stop and went backward to remove one single scratched line from one single polishing stroke, which ran through length of the polished Yojimbo. I don’t think my being careful is being paranoid, but without attention to detail, I wouldn’t be able to get to these mirror’ed stage of clarity:
Segregation to prevent cross contamination is important, whether in dealing with a narrow band width on the blade’s cutting edge or on a larger surface area, Especially in dealing for a near perfection to show clarity on a mirror finish.
Aloha!
02/01/2015 at 11:33 pm #23052I want a Yojimbo SO BAD!!
02/02/2015 at 1:43 am #23053I do have a special spot in my heart for my gently massaged Yojimbo!
In addition, unlike the Insingo, Yojimbo can be repetitively flick open, at max force, all without any discernible wear marks.
It is without a doubt, imo, great knife with great lock design, great blade steel and all at a bargain.
Aloha!
🙂
02/02/2015 at 6:18 am #23055Man, that is way cool! Can you tell us a little more on that other knife? (Chris Reeve?) What did you do to make the entire knife so shiny? (And is that a specially anodized handle?)
Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge
02/02/2015 at 6:42 am #23056Bro!……..I’d give my “left one” for that Sebenza you got there! Are you interested in selling it by chance?
02/02/2015 at 12:17 pm #23061Enjoy using the baggy method myself, just as you do. With the only exception being, “after placing both fine sides, facing one another, I wrap each set, such as the 100 200 set, with a fresh new paper towel each time, before placing it inside the baggy. that way it does state contamination free and also use a new pair of latex gloves, with each change of stones. Thanks for sharing. Two years ago, when I first got my wicked edge, had it not been for people like you and everybody else sharing, I would never have learned so many primary insights. Thanks so much.
02/02/2015 at 3:07 pm #23062hello lwaller1980, I just saw your response and figured you knew a little bit about Sebenza’s and I needed some help to answer a question. I just recently got a large Sabenza 21 Black Micarta Inlay. The price was $485 new. I have a friend that has been trying to trade me out of it, and I know that the option of trade is so late left up to the individual and what they want to trade for. However my question is this, he has stated that mine was only worth the $485 I paid for it and I told him they were worth more than that as people were commonly getting lots more than face value on trades. I wanted to know if that is true? In other words, what is the approximate trade value and is it worth more or less than what I paid if I were to sell it? The reason I am unsure is because it is in mint condition and has been kept in its box since day one and is only three weeks old. Thanks so much for any comments you may be able to give and anyone else for that matter. I am new to this for him so I’m not sure that anyone will even get this message but I am hoping so. Let me know please. Sincerely, Mark
02/02/2015 at 3:52 pm #23063Man, that is way cool! Can you tell us a little more on that other knife? (Chris Reeve?) What did you do to make the entire knife so shiny? (And is that a specially anodized handle?)
Basically just a little machining 101 was done to fancy it up a bit!
I started with making one piece titanium floating shoulder pin to replace the lanyard w/pin and grooved the original spacer:
Milled divots for an exact fit to my finger tips, both hands, to enhance the Filipino style knife grip for ambidextrous use:
Sand, mirror polish and final heat anodized handle slabs to my visualized separate finishes.
Presentation side – Looking up from underwater, light penetrating thru surface:
RIL side – To imitate the worn look as exposed to repetitive rubbing by clipping knife into pocket – white out at the tip of the handle slab, tip of pocket clip and area directly under the pocket clip:
Knife blade secondary angle highlight mirror shine is just a finish I prefer for this knife, worth the little extra effort to show pride of ownership:
Hope I didn’t bored you with these long winded answer! 🙂
Aloha!
02/02/2015 at 3:59 pm #23064Bro!……..I’d give my “left one” for that Sebenza you got there! Are you interested in selling it by chance?
That is a very high compliment!
But sorry, it is not for sale.
Aloha!
02/02/2015 at 6:22 pm #23068That mirror polish is completely impractical, but damn it looks good.
02/02/2015 at 11:16 pm #23069Opinion in terms of practicality for a mirror polish surface. Whether it is the primary edge or other selected surface over all.
IMO, analogy – when the need to carry a Presidential Rolex watch in a pocket :-
Exterior overall surface, a little common sense along with simple precautions, by not mixing with coins and keys when carried in pockets.
Usage included not as a pray bar or multi purpose tool and such. Simple common sense allowed mirror finished surfaces to look pristine for a long time.
Few examples:
Heat ano’ed finish are tough, shown here with a few homemade components, titanium headers and used since 1990 on my liter size crotch rocket, DD until 2005, now just sat there looking pretty:
Or homemade titanium shift knob, went through several evolution, from plain to solid to the final patina, mirror and the heat ano patina has endure well, use with common sense – without expose to other metallic contacts, to enhance driving excitements to put power/torque to the ground with my custom 4:10 ratio’ed rear end:
Regards to choice of blade finish:
Most makers offer other finishes, on the premise of the ability to blend in with wear and such. On the contrary, I’ve found, once scratched, however small, damage is impossible to restore and it is magnetic to my eyes! It becomes a major itch and diminishes my feel for it!
Historically, mirror polish is the highest time honored for any worthwhile blade. It is time consuming at the get go. Few custom knife makers advocates and offer the premium finish for an additional charge.
When peaks are bought down to the level of valleys on a leveled mirror surface finish, surface has less crevices to trap contaminates, moisture and such. Therefor, easier to stay clean. Unlike other lesser finishes, inadvertent scratches can also be restored back to original mirror’ed glory.
Certainly any form of personalizing, whether it is Motorsports, a simple knife’s overall surface or its primary edge is not for everyone. But that is why it is great, uniqueness for anyone’s choice!
Aloha!
🙂
02/03/2015 at 6:00 am #23082hello lwaller1980, I just saw your response and figured you knew a little bit about Sebenza’s and I needed some help to answer a question. I just recently got a large Sabenza 21 Black Micarta Inlay. The price was $485 new. I have a friend that has been trying to trade me out of it, and I know that the option of trade is so late left up to the individual and what they want to trade for. However my question is this, he has stated that mine was only worth the $485 I paid for it and I told him they were worth more than that as people were commonly getting lots more than face value on trades. I wanted to know if that is true? In other words, what is the approximate trade value and is it worth more or less than what I paid if I were to sell it? The reason I am unsure is because it is in mint condition and has been kept in its box since day one and is only three weeks old. Thanks so much for any comments you may be able to give and anyone else for that matter. I am new to this for him so I’m not sure that anyone will even get this message but I am hoping so. Let me know please. Sincerely, Mark
Mark , I can tell you a little about Chris Reeves Sebenza’s. Chris sets the pricing, so his dealers have very little to work with as far as price. One might offer free shipping, as a savings but; from one dealer to the next the prices is darn close. Currently a large Sebenza with a inlay runs $485, just as you payed. There plenty for sale these days, so do not expect to get more than dealer price. Remember to, once you sharpen it the value drops, as a collection the factory edge has higher value? If the Sebenza is different, like the one I this thread, yes it might sale for more, if it is a hard to find model, like snake wood inlay and D Thomas blade, the market drives the price, supply and demand world. The Sebenza is good about holding its value, that ties back to having the price set. And there a darn fine knife, I love mine.
James02/04/2015 at 10:32 pm #23115Got this idea from another user. It is a Plano box also with a little Dremel mod for the Hones to fit in the slots.
Attachments:02/05/2015 at 11:20 am #23128Hello Pink:
That’s the best looking solution I’ve seen for a portable rig.
02/05/2015 at 6:25 pm #23129Opinion in terms of practicality for a mirror polish surface. Whether it is the primary edge or other selected surface over all.
IMO, analogy – when the need to carry a Presidential Rolex watch in a pocket :-
Exterior overall surface, a little common sense along with simple precautions, by not mixing with coins and keys when carried in pockets.
Usage included not as a pray bar or multi purpose tool and such. Simple common sense allowed mirror finished surfaces to look pristine for a long time.
Thanks for sharing your experience with this. I have never owned a fully mirror polished knife.
I never use a knife as a pry bar but I get fine scratches on the sides of blades from abrasive material like cardboard. I don’t think the mirror polish would prevent the scratches, though I do agree that a higher polish seems more stain resistant.
You wrote:
“Unlike other lesser finishes, inadvertent scratches can also be restored back to original mirror’ed glory.”
Surely it is easier to restore a scotch-brite finish than it is a mirror? What kind of “lesser” finishes do you mean? I guess things like bead blast (not that I want that) need special tools but ultimately that seems easier too. As you stated a high quality mirror polish is one of the most demanding wash to finish a blade.
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