Stone Rack and Rod Stops

[Marc H]

I first saw this type of rack in Josh’s YouTube on calculating the correction for FFG clamping errors. While shopping the kitchen deptmt at the local Home Goods I came across this bamboo cutting board with drawers and it looked like just what I could adapt.

I bought 1/4″ aluminum rod, metal cutting jig saw blades a new sharp drill bit at Home Depot and had at it.

I found this Drill Guide from Amazon.com I only have hand tools so this helped with the perpendicular holes.

I layed out the grid, drilled the hole, then cut the rod to length. I chucked the cut aluminum rod dowels in the hand drill and spun it in sand paper to smooth it and bevel the ends. It also insured the stone would slide easily onto the dowel. It didn’t even require gluing since the rods fit the drilled holes snuggly.

I’ve since seen several other Quirky Boards

The Rod Stops are for keeping the stone from sliding too low or too high. Like many of you I switched to longer guide rods for those longer kitchen knives or those knives clamped in the LAA. After sliding up or down the longer guide rods and scratching the bevel I worked so hard to make mirror-like I came up with this idea.

Theses I found a Home Depot’s plumbing deptmt with the faucet washer repair parts. I had to hold the hard rubber with a pliars to drill the center hole larger. They slide on with a little force and stay firmly in place. Now when I’m in a rhythm alternating from side to side polishing that bevel I don’t slip off the top of it and come back down against the sharpened edge.

It’s better to take the top stop off when stropping. When I am concentrating on the smooth light motion I found I was cutting into the strop, particularly the bamboo one, when the motion stopped abruptly when I bumped up against the top stop. When stropping since we’re only going up and away in one direction with the trailing edge strokes it’s ok to slide up off the knife edge. With knives clamped in the low angle adapter they are up much higher. The bottom stop gives me a higher starting place and removes the wasted downward motion and keeps me from scratching the blade as I go down off the knife edge.

I hope you guys find these helpful.

Marc

Attachments:

• StoneRack1.jpg
• StoneRack2.jpg
• TopStop.jpg
• BottomStop.jpg

Marc
(MarcH's Rack-Its)

[tcmeyer]

Very much like my solution. I had a length of mahogany I’d salvaged from my parent’s old headboard. I too used 1/4″ aluminum stock to stand the stones on. I spaced them out a little more to avoid cross-contamination or accidental contact. The organization advantage came out to be a no-brainer, as you have to return a pair of stones to its assigned home before selecting the next grit. There’s no where else to go with them. I decided this more than offset the negatives: (1) having to reach over the clamped blade to exchange stones and (2) where would I go with an additional pair of stones – like the 50/80.

Attachments:

• stonestorage.jpg

[developer (ChrisB)]

You guys are insane. But I must admit I’m jealous. :cheer:

Working to make knife.wickededgeusa.com a great forum!

[Marc H]

It’s all about priorities, or is that lack of priorities :unsure:

Marc
(MarcH's Rack-Its)

[Mark76]

Wow! Thanks for sharing, guys!

Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

[John Derry]

Very much like my solution. I had a length of mahogany I’d salvaged from my parent’s old headboard. I too used 1/4″ aluminum stock to stand the stones on. I spaced them out a little more to avoid cross-contamination or accidental contact. The organization advantage came out to be a no-brainer, as you have to return a pair of stones to its assigned home before selecting the next grit. There’s no where else to go with them. I decided this more than offset the negatives: (1) having to reach over the clamped blade to exchange stones and (2) where would I go with an additional pair of stones – like the 50/80.

Are the white paddles on the right side lapping films?
who makes those?

[Josh]

Very much like my solution. I had a length of mahogany I’d salvaged from my parent’s old headboard. I too used 1/4″ aluminum stock to stand the stones on. I spaced them out a little more to avoid cross-contamination or accidental contact. The organization advantage came out to be a no-brainer, as you have to return a pair of stones to its assigned home before selecting the next grit. There’s no where else to go with them. I decided this more than offset the negatives: (1) having to reach over the clamped blade to exchange stones and (2) where would I go with an additional pair of stones – like the 50/80.

Are the white paddles on the right side lapping films?
who makes those?[/quote]

Yes and they are about as custom as you can get! Rock on Tom!! (Tom made them)

[John Derry]

Yes and they are about as custom as you can get! Rock on Tom!! (Tom made them)

That’s awesome!

[tcmeyer]

The white blocks are ABS with 3/4″ wide, 1/8″ thick brass plates. All my blocks are modified with 1/4″ bronze bushings to eliminate angular slop.

While my bushings are held parallel to the working faces +/- 0.002″ , they are not equidistant from both faces, so I have to use the Variable Stone Thickness Adapters with every grit change.

[Author]

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