Sharpening Steel?

[ken vanderhamm]

I am curious if there has been any testing of a sharpening steel that is incorporated with the WE? Since the dulling of a sharp knife is usually the apex of the edge bending or folding over, wouldn’t a nearly smooth steel role the edge back in place? The advantage as I see it would be less wearing away of the blade by using a smooth edge and not one that removes metal when it isn’t necessary, as in a newly created edge. If this would work, what angle would one use to accomplish this? Thanks for any thoughts,

Ken

[Steven N. Bolin]

I am curious if there has been any testing of a sharpening steel that is incorporated with the WE? Since the dulling of a sharp knife is usually the apex of the edge bending or folding over, wouldn’t a nearly smooth steel role the edge back in place? The advantage as I see it would be less wearing away of the blade by using a smooth edge and not one that removes metal when it isn’t necessary, as in a newly created edge. If this would work, what angle would one use to accomplish this? Thanks for any thoughts,

Ken

Good question. Thanks for bringing up the topic.

Here’s my take on sharpening steels – I loathe them.
Why? Because there’s no sharpening and/or honing involved, when sharpening and/or honing must be nvolved for the knife to be truly sharp.

To me, sharpening a knife involves maintenance of the edge itself by refinement, not alignment.

Realigning the edge, gently or aggressively – the latter often done by the majority of people – only weakens it as it bends back and forth. Think of a paperclip.

So, what happens when it breaks? You’re left with nothing. Establishing a completely new edge at this point, even if the break is only a mil deep, means getting to the bottom of that break over the entire length of the edge. In short, the unnecessary subtracting of steel in bulk is inevitable when a strong, well maintained edge could’ve stood it’s ground thanks to the firm footing provided at the beginning.

I know this doesn’t entirely answer your question… Opinions obviously vary… So I’m curious to hear what Clay and other forum members have to say about the use of sharpening steels as well.

[Mark76]

I agree with Steven.

A steel is supposed to align a folded edge back into place. But it doesn’t do so in a nice way. So your left with a much weaker edge that will break or chip very easily.

I think it only has a place in commercial meat cutting where it is used because ppl have to carry on and have no means of sharpening their knives in the middle of their work. But in a home kitchen, particularly of a WEPS owner…

This is in contrast to a ceramic rod, which does sharpen (a little). You can somewhat compare it to the WEPS ceramic stones, but it’s freehand of course and you will not restore you edge nearly as well as with the WEPS. (And don’t use it with ninja tricks shown on Youtube…)

Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

[Steven N. Bolin]

This is in contrast to a ceramic rod, which does sharpen (a little)

Ah, yes, a great point worth mentioning. Thank you, Mark!

If I had a preference, it would be ceramic, not steel. And I’d only use it to make some light edge trailing passes to maintain the edge… Like a quick touching up of a micro bevel… Possibly burr removal… Although, I’d try finding a cork or eraser first 🙂

[Aaron kimpton]

There are also diamond steels. Ikea sells one somewhere about 600-800 grit.

Ikea slit bar. It soes a fair job at keeping an edge when used correctly

[tcmeyer]

I was told by a meat-cutter friend that the steel is intended to raise a burr – a foil edge was what he called it. Meat is one of those materials that requires a toothy edge. Once it’s lost, the knife simply doesn’t perform.

[Aaron kimpton]

For sub par knives maybe. I did 6 deer gut, skin and deboned with one knife. It was finished at 17dps and 1600 ceramics. Good steel properly tempered and cleaned will hold up.

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