I have read these but chef’s knifes dont look like these knifes straight and then curve. so you just match the curve at the end they are curved all the way.
What worked for me was taking a sharpie and coloring the edge, mounting the knife and passing 1000g stone till it removed the sharpie, I then adjusted the distance from the tip to the clap till the WEPS follows the factory bevel. you might have to mount and sharpen in sections if you want to maintain these larger knives or the exact original curved edge, I don’t have any experience with this technique unfortunately.[/quote]
Hey you guys – and welcome to the forum :cheer: Not sure that I’ve shared a thread with any of you yet or said hello!
Nicholas is correct, while they don’t look the same in shape as the knives in Wicked Edge’s diagram, the technique is the same no matter what the knife shape. You’ll still be watching how the hone removes the sharpie along the full blade length and repositioning based on what it tells you using the sweet spot diagram that he linked to
You shouldn’t have to reposition the knife on this style and length of blade – the settings I use on mine are pretty much what Jeffery has – bottom holes, D and 19-22. – These settings will vary slightly with the curve of the knife but they give you a ball park on where to try your knife as a starting point.
When you do reposition in the sharpening, you need to create an overlap and match your angle to that overlap – to say it another way, when you move the blade the next length you sharpen will include part of the knife you have already sharpened. You’ll match your angle against that already sharpened part using the sharpie, then follow the same sweet spot sharpie technique to get the knife in the right position so that the stones track your knife evenly at that matched angle.
Hope that helps and have a great weekend! B)
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