Advanced Search

Reprofile Question

Viewing 6 posts - 1 through 6 (of 6 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #18360
    steve green
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 13

    I’ve had my WE for a while now, works great for me-I couldn’t be happier with it. I think this might be the first time I’m trying to do a true reprofile. The knife is a custom skinner, shaped similar to a Sharpfinger. The maker finishes his edges convex, I have other pieces from him, he does good work. This one just needed some help.

    I tried the Goniometer but the edge was such a wide convex (or something) that it registered over 30deg each side. I’m trying to bring the edge to 17deg each side. The blade is 1095/15N20 Damascus, RC of “IDK”. After approx 15 minutes w/50 grit on the right side I’m still not hitting the edge, as shown by sharpie.

    Is this about average? Or am I screwing something up?

    by the way, How do you indent a new paragraph? I’m trying to avoid the “wall of words”.

    Thanks in advance,
    Steve

    #18364
    Josh
    Participant
    • Topics: 89
    • Replies: 1672

    That’s totally normal 🙂 especially if the edge is thick… Do you have a micrometer that you can measure the edge width?

    If you are reprofiling from over 30dps to 17dps then your edge angle will get much wider fyi

    Josh

    #18365
    Xbander
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 68

    I tried the Goniometer but the edge was such a wide convex (or something) that it registered over 30deg each side. I’m trying to bring the edge to 17deg each side. The blade is 1095/15N20 Damascus, RC of “IDK”. After approx 15 minutes w/50 grit on the right side I’m still not hitting the edge, as shown by sharpie.

    Thanks in advance,
    Steve

    Hi Steve,
    Gutsy a 50 grit on a Damascus blade. . . can not say I would try that.
    I have re pro-filled 50+ knives with the 50/80 grids, they are wonderful tools, very fast at setting a
    new profile angle. Most metals take the new profile very fast. The Damascus might be harder.
    The 50/80 will remove the convex shape, so be careful there. The 50/80 will also mark or cut leaving
    a very unclean marks below the edge. For average kitchen knives the 50/80 are wonderful to get a clean start fast.
    I have sharpened several Damascus , I always go slow, I spend hours working little by little. Would never use the 50/80 on a nice knife. My Chris Reeves knife in my pocket has Devin Thomas Damascus blade, it has a mirror edge. I have no idea how many hours I worked – played – enjoyed every minute. To get the convex just right, well I am still working. – that is the fun of this.

    James

    #18367
    steve green
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 13

    Thanks for the replies. Razoredge; I have a Micrometer, somewhere. Probably never find it. Re; going from 30-17dps, I doubt the Goniometer was getting an accurate reading. Could a fat convex throw it off? It’s designed for angles, not curves, right?

    JamesBell, I know what you mean by “gutsy”, it sounds like a hacksaw on an iron bar. That’s why I stopped to get some advice. I knew going into this that 50 would have an effect on the finished edge, so I’m OK with that. The convex wasn’t working for me on this knife, otherwise I would be using the strops on it.

    The blade is kind of beefy for 3.5 inches, at about 1/8″ thick.

    #18370
    Josh
    Participant
    • Topics: 89
    • Replies: 1672

    Thanks for the replies. Razoredge; I have a Micrometer, somewhere. Probably never find it. Re; going from 30-17dps, I doubt the Goniometer was getting an accurate reading. Could a fat convex throw it off? It’s designed for angles, not curves, right?

    JamesBell, I know what you mean by “gutsy”, it sounds like a hacksaw on an iron bar. That’s why I stopped to get some advice. I knew going into this that 50 would have an effect on the finished edge, so I’m OK with that. The convex wasn’t working for me on this knife, otherwise I would be using the strops on it.

    The blade is kind of beefy for 3.5 inches, at about 1/8″ thick.

    Yeah, if you can, apex the edge at the 200 level instead of the 50 level… You will have to significantly grind with your 100’s and 200’s to remove those deeper scratches, especially if you are going for a mirror finish.

    If your edge is thick (ie a beefy blade) you may as well prepare to spend a while… That’s one reason why I try to reprofile on my belt sander and finish on my WEPS when I can 😉 anything by hand always takes longer!

    Josh

    #18464
    steve green
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 13

    Right,…so update. Work in progress. Still no pics, DOH!
    Razoredge very true, and helpful. Long time, I killed most of my day off. My wife wanted to know if it was some kind of therapy.
    Thanks for the heads up about the 200 grit. Took forever, but cleaned up nicely.

    I’m going to start another thread, just wanted to update this one first.The knife is sharp now, shaves hair. BUT, only where the Knife Maker brought the grind to an edge to start with.

    Using the sharpie and magnification I found the only edge on the whole blade is at the belly. The heel of the blade is a dull, probably unintentional recurve, with an abrupt stop at the ricasso. The edge comes apart as the belly curves up to the point, leaving the knife pointless.

    It’s a lot better, but I still have a couple of hours ahead of me.
    Guys, thanks for the help.

Viewing 6 posts - 1 through 6 (of 6 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.