Recurves
- This topic has 7 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 06/02/2017 at 5:41 pm by
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I’ve done recurves with both the curved ceramic and the regular diamonds. Only recurve I have left is my Cold Steel Rajah III which is my go to gardening knife. Last time I sharpened it, I used the regular diamond through 1000 grit and then stropped. Hardest part to deal with is the back end of the blade near the ricasso. The curved ceramics handle this portion of the blade a little easier. Here’s a pic after it was sharpened with the regular diamonds and stropped.
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I have sharpened a Kershaw Tremor with no problems. Unless the blade has enormous amounts of recurve (like a gut hook or a karambit), I wouldn’t think it would present an issue just using the standard diamond plates.
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A year-and-a-half ago, I sharpened some of my sister’s higher-end knives. One was a doozy of a recurve, but I used stones which were very well broken-in and I managed very well. Remember that the sides of the stones will be where the cutting is done, so keep your pressure light and well-centered. This will allow the stone to follow the edge without shifting the pressure from the leading edge of the stone to the trailing edge and back again.
Sorry for the poor photo quality.
As Tom said, try to use the edges of the stones for the recurves (or even the corners in case of major recurves). The curved ceramic stones work well, but they are only available in 600 grit.
Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge
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I put a mirror edge on a ZT 0300 without much difficulty. When I sharpen recurves I just try to be conscious of where I am applying pressure with the stone to ensure I am following the curve of the blade.
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