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Question regarding stones moving/ sliding smoothly on arms

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  • #19412
    Ryan
    Participant
    • Topics: 2
    • Replies: 1

    Just got my pro pack 2 the other day, haven’t gotten to use it much yet (work/PT school) but I have noticed one thing that doesn’t seem quite right. When using some of the stones, specifically noticed with the microfine ceramics last night, one of the pair is very difficult to slide on the arms. I switched sides and it happened on the other arm as well so it seems that the issue is with the paddle itself. It feels as though it is binding on the arm and not allowing me to slide it smoothly.

    Has anyone else had this issue? And what was the solution? It also happened with one of the other pairs of stones as well can’t remember what grit off hand. I was thinking about lightly reaming out the holes of the paddles with fine grit sandpaper to smooth them out, but I’m not sure how to approach that or if its a good idea. Thanks in advance!

    Ryan

    #19413
    Gib Curry
    Participant
    • Topics: 18
    • Replies: 240

    Just got my pro pack 2 the other day, haven’t gotten to use it much yet (work/PT school) but I have noticed one thing that doesn’t seem quite right. When using some of the stones, specifically noticed with the microfine ceramics last night, one of the pair is very difficult to slide on the arms. I switched sides and it happened on the other arm as well so it seems that the issue is with the paddle itself. It feels as though it is binding on the arm and not allowing me to slide it smoothly.

    Has anyone else had this issue? And what was the solution? It also happened with one of the other pairs of stones as well can’t remember what grit off hand. I was thinking about lightly reaming out the holes of the paddles with fine grit sandpaper to smooth them out, but I’m not sure how to approach that or if its a good idea. Thanks in advance!

    Ryan

    I got my setup a year ago. One of the paddles was sticky. I talked to customer service at Wicked Edge and Oldawan. They said they’d send a new one. I said that is a bit extreme and they said I could try running a rat tail round file through it a few times.

    Having been in business for a few decades it didn’t seem necessary to get it replaced when a quick fix would do but both Wicked Edge and Oldawan were willing. That’s all it took and it’s been fine since.

    Congrats on getting your system. You’ll love this forum…..

    ~~~~
    For Now,

    Gib

    Φ

    "Everyday edge for the bevel headed"

    "Things work out best for those who make the best out of the way things work out."

    #19421
    tcmeyer
    Participant
    • Topics: 38
    • Replies: 2098

    I’ve been experimenting with rods and blocks and maybe can share a little info.

    I’m in line with Gib’s mind set – I won’t pester a vendor for something I can easily fix myself. It just goes against my nature.

    The important thing to keep in mind is that where the bore is true, the alignment between the blocks and rods is primarily determined by the aperture at each end of the block and the rod. The clearance between the rod and the bore of the block is less important. Imagine the bore being way oversize… The rod is still held in its relative position by contact with the openings at the ends.

    This means that you can use sandpaper or a file to open the bore if you are careful to not increase the size of the opening at the ends. I cut a length of No. 12 copper wire to about 8″ long, then folded one end over a very small strip of 120-grit sandpaper and pinched it tight. Chucked the other end up in a cordless drill and buzzed it around inside the block just enough to relieve the tight spot. It doesn’t take much. Don’t create any unnecessary slop, ’cause zero slop means more precision.

    #19466
    Ryan
    Participant
    • Topics: 2
    • Replies: 1

    Thanks guys ill try it

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