Please help a newbie, edge is crap…

[tcmeyer]

Hi Leo:  I too was a beneficiary of the clever mods you show, and I can’t recall the fellows name either.  I did add some features to both my Gen 1/3 and my Gen 3 Pro rigs, where I converted the microadjusts to a knurled knob with a zero-thru-9 scale on the knob’s hub.  I accomplish the locking with a similar knurled flange nut (a knob with the hub cut off) acting as a jam nut against the upright.  See the photo below.

I also have the RAM system for clamping handles, but not the tip support rig you show.  It would certainly make it easier to do filet knives.

1 user thanked author for this post.

wickededge

[Leo James Mitchell]

Hi TC old mate! So good to hear from you and am flattered to be remembered.

I love your new mod with the numbered dial. This rig would even better than the original one we both received from our mysterious benefactor. I envy people like you with machining skills and savvy. Well done sir! I wonder how many of the original guys are still here.

Anyway, so great touching base with you and the forum again. I will drop around on occasion, meanwhile be well and best regards my friend TC. Mitchell out.

1 user thanked author for this post.

wickededge

[Organic]

Eric wrote:

Thanks for the help, appreciate it. So a question, regardless what angle I am starting with (staying with this one just to keep it easy though), if I start at 26.85 dps, starting with 800 say, then go to 1000 and check the edge angle and reset 26.85, won’t the angle be slightly different than what I finished with from the 800? I’m thinking even if I only take off a tiny bit to make sure I am getting a burr on both sides, isn’t the angle going to slightly increase, and then when I go back to 26.85 I won’t be getting to the edge?

I think you’re conceptualizing the sharpening process incorrectly. If you set the angle to 26.85 degrees (or any other angle) it will stay at that angle unless you change stones or change the setting. You can prove this to yourself using a sharpie to mark the bevels and a magnifying device. Once you change grit levels, check that the new grit is also reading exactly 26.85 degrees. Then mark the edge with the sharpie and do a few light passes with the stone. If you look at the bevels with your magnifier you should see that the sharpie was removed evenly all the way to the apex of the bevels. If the angle had become more obtuse like you’re concerned about then you would see that the sharpie would remain at the very edge of the apex.

While you certainly can create a burr at each grit in the process to ensure that you’re always reaching the apex, this is unnecessary. It will become increasingly difficult to detect the burr as you move into the finer grit levels.

2 users thanked author for this post.

Leo James Mitchell, Marc H

[Leo James Mitchell]

If I understand you Organic…right on the money! Well stated! If the beginner reads Clay’s simple instructions that comes with the kit, he won’t go wrong. Organic has stated the simplicity behind the using of this rig another way! Good stuff!

[Author]

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