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need help with my upgrade kit

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  • #17537
    Lee Markowitz
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 2

    Hey guys been reading here for a few months now and I’ve had my WE for a little over a month now. I just got the upgrade kit from Clay at the ECCKS knife show. So i put everything together and i have a few concerns. My degrees are really really off (it was a pretty large knife) if i want 25 i had to set it to 27 on the left and 30 on the right with micro adjustment. Here are some pictures.




    this is what i had the left side set to

    The next issue i noticed is when I’m tightening the clamp down on the knife sometimes the knife dosnt sit at 0 degrees.

    The last issue i ran into was the same knife i was working on above i could not seem to get the edge even the whole way down the knife.

    any help with any of these issues would be greatly appreciated!

    #17539
    tcmeyer
    Participant
    • Topics: 38
    • Replies: 2095

    I have less experience than most of the guys here, but I’ll make a couple of observations.

    1.. That’s a really wide knife blade. The angle marks are intended for an edge about 5/8″ above the vise jaws, so I would expect much higher angles for a very wide blade. That said, there shouldn’t be such a large difference from side to side. I know Clay has addressed this with another customer who had a similar problem. I’m sure he’ll give you an answer.

    2. To check your blade for true vertical, obviously first zero your cube on the base, then hold the cube against one of the flat, vertical grinds. I don’t think 0.45 degrees is all that far out of whack. If the blade is held on a flat area of the grind, as shown, the space between the jaws should be pretty similar from top to bottom. Just to confirm it, I’d remove the right side jaw and check the vertical face on the stationary side with your cube for reference.

    3. The variation in the bevel width is likely a result of an uneven hollow grind. The bevel width is the hypotenuse of a triangle made up of the edge, the blade centerline and the thickness of the blade at the bevel line. Unless there is a huge hiccup in the angle of the stone, the bevel line can’t vary that much.

    #17545
    Lee Markowitz
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 2

    i was thinking the wideness of the blade had to do with it but being off by more then 5 degrees i thought was a little much.

    Your number three is referring to me not being able to get a even bevel on that one knife, it is a pretty cheap knife so from what your saying the knife was not ground evenly from the factory?

    #17547
    tcmeyer
    Participant
    • Topics: 38
    • Replies: 2095

    I just noticed from your pictures that you show the blade clamped in two different positions. Are you maybe not overlapping enough? Even that shouldn’t cause so much difference in the bevel width. If you have a micrometer or a good caliper, measure the thickness of the bevel at several different points along its line. That should tell you if there’s a variation in the factory grind.

    If you are stoning the edge with it mounted in two different positions, remount the blade close to its midpoint and stone the entire length while in that position. I do knives over 12″ long without moving them.

    #17548
    Lee Markowitz
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 2

    i actually took the first picture of the knife did some testing and moved the knife back more for a more even bevel at the tip and sharpened it where it is in the second and third picture.

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