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? light scratch removal on polished Titanium . . .

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    He did paint a funny picture alrighty.  That one stuck in my head too!  All these knife manufactuers have to be a little different or they would all look and function the same.  Each brand or model has it’s own uniqueness.  This is why as I was new to the building a collection hobby a few months ago I picked out some of the most popular brands and iconic knives first.  Bought them all at big discounts, so I could resell the ones that I was not that thrilled with.  Such as an example the Spyderco Para 2.  I think most Spyderco’s are ugly too, but to each their own.  The para is a frame lock, but its very easy to open and close. But its and ugl style  IMO and felt like a toy knife.

    The ZT line have some iconic models in premium steels, but they are heavy and built like tanks.  Benchmade for the money, has some of the best styles and opening and closing actions.  They range from inexpensive to expensive to reach all levels of consumer desires.

    The Chris Reeve brand is iconic and really hold their values, if bought right.  The Sebenza 21 model came out around 1987.   It’s their own proprietary premium steel, but I was able to put a beautiful edge on it with the WE.  As they get more expensive each year, it also pulls up the used resale values.   Initially I bought 6 different ones, but they all have stiff frame locks and a stiff hydraulic action that you wind up with callous on the tip of your thumb.  3 were Mnandis each having different wood or a Damascus blade.  But for me, they are just a collectors item and they are tiny and only good for opening envelopes or cleaning under your nails, again IMO,  So I re-sold them too and I’m down to the one  large Sebenza 21.  I had a small Sebenza 21, but that was also sold as I found it too small.  I’d like to see them offer one in a middle size.

    On the scratching of an everday user.  I originally took all my pocket clips off as I also felt they were ugly.  But then I got all deep carry pocket clips.  These are great as it still leaves like a 1/2 of a pocket for stuff as the knife carries up high but not enough to peek out of your pants.  I hated when im driving and without a pocket clip on loose pants the knife turns sideways and it uncomfortable when moving around.

    My shorts that day had a shallow pocket and I never realized I put the keys and the knife in the same pocket.  Polished titanium shows scratches way too easily. Even the sandblasted grey Titanium handles that Chris Reeves offers also scratches easily.  I think they call them snail trails.   I also use a beater knife which is an auto assisted opening Kershaw Ken Onion Blur.  Its somewhat a rubberized textured handle and they can be found in the $50 range.  I’ve used this one for years.  The blade swings open from the side with springs as it opens like a switch blade but even in NY, its still legal as its considered assisted as you start the motion with your thumb on the thumbstud.  Its not an auto push button like a switch blade.  I’m going to mirror its edge next, but 1/2 of it is serrated, so that ought to be a hoot!  I plan to blue tape over the serrated part.

    These companies are all upping their game when it comes to the premium steels they offer with various models.  These steels are really hard and high up on the hardness/edge retention index.  The trade off is they are harder to sharpen from what owners complain about on various forums.  Steels like M390, S90V, S30V . . . I’d like to email Josh from razor edge knives at some point and see how he’s learned to handle these harder steels.  He makes it look easy in his videos, until I tried them myself.  I’m still up in the air on which ones will remain in my collection, so I can’t get more practice on the harder steels yet.  But I’m in no rush.

    I buy all my knives used at big discounts just like I do cars.  I buy cars when it’s time to upgrade like a year or two old and let someone else take the 25% depreciation hit when buying new.

    And thanks for your above comment.


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