Linkage play–your technique for consistency?

[Josh]

Just thought I would bump this thread as cbwx34 thinks this was never an issue and I am only one of a few with this problem.

Interesting to see the straws and the ball joint ideas were conceived in this thread also.
http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=6&id=1888&limit=10&limitstart=60&Itemid=63#2350%5B/quote%5D

I also failed to see where CBW said that… what he said was

I think because a few we’re pretty vocal about the pins, it was perceived as a problem that needed replacing. I’m not sure of the numbers, but I’m guessing that if it was a large number it would be replaced, if for no other reason than it would quickly become time consuming and costly to replace a large number after they’re sent.

he said a “few were pretty vocal about the issue,” not that only a few had the problem. He said that he was not sure of the numbers…

I posted on this thread a while back and have had my WE for around a year now… I am well aware of the issues that it had back then. I modded mine to suit my needs/desires, and since then, Clay and the team at WE have only made it better. The ball joint upgrade option is one example of this. They jumped right on the issue when my vise bent, and sent a new one out without me sending in my bent one first. If you have a problem w/ the way WE did something, call them and work it out. I know first hand they will work with you and make it right…

So, the consistency issues are being worked out continually… but most never need the upgraded ball joint arms. Like Philip posted from Bob Nash, unless you are sharpening straight razors and OCD you don’t need it =) I sharpen straights w/ my old joints and they are fine.

Now that this thread is thoroughly disrailed 😆

[Chris]

Well I can’t post any more here about this as I have been threatened with a ban.

So, I understand what you are saying and appreciate your view.

[Jerry Stephenson]

I have now used my replaced arms (see post previous page) for several months with great success. The improvements I made are:

1. Diameter better matches the holes through the stones.
2. Thickness of flat section matches the inside dimension of the u-joint.
3. Hole in flat exactly matches the pin.
4. My arms are perhaps 1/2″ longer. No big deal. One member requested them 2″ longer.

I have recieved some private messages and made sets for other members. If you are interested, drop me a note.

–Jerry

[Chris]

Took me about an hour using a collet block to get the faces parallel.

–Jerry

Hi Jerry, that’s the bit I still have an issue with.

It’s great to see you sorted it out.
This thread is a great read and shows how a community all pitched in to deal with it.

I have now used my replaced arms (see post previous page) for several months with great success. The improvements I made are:

1. Diameter better matches the holes through the stones.
2. Thickness of flat section matches the inside dimension of the u-joint.
3. Hole in flat exactly matches the pin.
4. My arms are perhaps 1/2″ longer. No big deal. One member requested them 2″ longer.

I have recieved some private messages and made sets for other members. If you are interested, drop me a note.

–Jerry

Thanks Jerry, I wonder if going a touch thicker than 1/4″ for the rod is possible?
I guess it would not be a shelf item. 😉

I would like to get hold of some longer arms also.
I’m now using the upgraded ball joint kit and am very happy with that.
I swapped the ball joint for a covered version.

http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=8&id=6824&Itemid=63

[Jerry Stephenson]

Very nice ball joint adaptation.

As for the larger diameter rods, I did a quick search for metric and decimal sizes in the .255″ range and found nothing. The .250 seems to work pretty well. If you can find the stock I can make arms out of it.

Taking 5/16 and turning it down to .255 would be a lot of work and difficult because the rod isn’t that stiff over the full length.

–Jerry

[Chris]

Very nice ball joint adaptation.

As for the larger diameter rods, I did a quick search for metric and decimal sizes in the .255″ range and found nothing. The .250 seems to work pretty well. If you can find the stock I can make arms out of it.

Taking 5/16 and turning it down to .255 would be a lot of work and difficult because the rod isn’t that stiff over the full length.

–Jerry

The 1/4″ (.250) rods do work well, it’s just when the stones slide higher and the amount of rod left inside the paddle is minimal, things get wobbly.
That’s why I want to try longer arms, is there any reason why they are the current length?

[Gary Crumb]

Taking 5/16 and turning it down to .255 would be a lot of work and difficult because the rod isn’t that stiff over the full length.

–Jerry

About the only way I can think of to do it without bending would entail drawing it through a die, not very cost effective as a solution…or if you have a 2 chuck metal lathe where you could work just a small portion of the rod, but that throws a bunch of other issues into the mix…

I don’t see anything simple or anything nearly as elegant as Chris’s ball mod is.

[Jerry Stephenson]

You can use a steady rest to support the rod but the setup time means it better be something you really want to machine. –Jerry

[Gary Crumb]

I know there’s options on a metal lathe I don’t have on a wood lathe so I will leave it to the experts and stop playing armchair machinist. lol

I guess my point was only to reiterate effort versus reward and diminishing return. I can understand if you’re stacking tolerances but with the new arms that five thousandths is really the only slack and that is mitigated by the rod length so until you are almost completely off the rod, it’s maybe half that or less? So, in reality, what are we talking degree-wise?
That’s a real question, I’m trying to see where it becomes completely cost prohibitive for that last .1 degree…

[Chris]

I’m more interested in a bit more length as I posted above.

If it causes other problems, it would be nice to know before I try it.

[Gary Crumb]

I’m more interested in a bit more length as I posted above.

If it causes other problems, it would be nice to know before I try it.

I personally think more length should help, not hurt. It might create a small issue with technique as you’ll need to make sure the rod ends don’t hit each other on alternating strokes, but other than that I see a longer rod eliminating some of the play since you’ll always have more rod left in the paddle than you have now. Less chance for rocking moment.

[Chris]

Mmm, thanks, I might move on this idea soon.

Need some space age material like this.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/delrinrod.php

[Jerry Stephenson]

Delrin is relatively soft and would load up with metal filings and diamond debris. I think it may be hard to beat good old fashioned steel in this application.

[Chris]

I thought you would say that.

Are there differing qualities of this SS rod?
I can’t help remembering some high $ vehicle pushrods I bought once for a drag car. (alloy)

[Chris]

I personally think more length should help, not hurt. It might create a small issue with technique as you’ll need to make sure the rod ends don’t hit each other on alternating strokes, but other than that I see a longer rod eliminating some of the play since you’ll always have more rod left in the paddle than you have now. Less chance for rocking moment.

I had some arms made two inches longer and loving them.
Highly recommend this.

Thinking I might raise the clamp even higher and go “another” inch or so on the arms.
Then I will be using “all” the stone at shallower angles.
Had a custom riser made and may machine the clamp sides as well.

Working on a rotating option for the vice also to remove the need for “packing” with FFG’s.

Another idea is to have a base rail that the vise can slide along so I don’t have to undo and move a long knife, I simply unlock and slide the clamped vice.
Perhaps two clamps or a front blade support on this rail?

[Author]

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