Linkage play–your technique for consistency?
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- This topic has 104 replies, 24 voices, and was last updated 01/01/2013 at 1:17 pm by Chris.
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03/29/2012 at 12:53 pm #2297
Clay, Not sure if you have seen this type of universal joint
03/29/2012 at 1:40 pm #2303Clay, Not sure if you have seen this type of universal joint
No, but I’m really intrigued. Where can I get my hands on one?
-Clay
03/29/2012 at 2:08 pm #2304razoredgeknives wrote:
“Did you tap the joints yourself and put in the allen screw or do you have those screws going into a nut on the other side?”
Clay did the modification on the arms of my WE.
I tapped the joint. Am going to play with using nuts too, to see if is easier.[/quote]
keep me posted…. what size screws do you recommend to fit through the existing hole?[/quote]
As I had mentioned in an earlier post, 5-40 is the same diameter as the existing hole and if you buy them long enough in an Allen head there will be an unthreaded portion for the arm to ride on. Cut off the excess. I used 4-40 nyloc nuts tapped to 5-40, just because they where smaller, but work perfectly for the job.
CAW
03/29/2012 at 2:50 pm #2305Clay I found that while looking at some underwater photog stuff.
http://www.pexsupply.com/Honeywell-103598-1-4-Ball-Joint
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/products/15269-ball-joint-1-4-28-1.htmlI would think even std ball joints would work well as you really only need to move in one plane.
http://www.nbb-bearing.com/spherical-plain-bearing/20081181469.html
Tolerences will be tighter and eliminate the linkage jamming up?
http://www.grouptornado.com/tr/node/161
http://grouptornado.com/en/content/ball-joints-spanner-flat-ball-studs-mountedhttp://www.directindustry.com/prod/chiavette-unificate-spa/angle-joints-28993-419678.html
or a smaller version of this
http://www.asiabearings.com/Rod-End-Bearings/Threaded-Ball-Joint-Rod-End-SQZ5-RS.htmlThese guys seems to have a huge selection
http://www.midwestcontrol.com/part_family.php?id=1A bit expensive but similar to these
http://pdf.directindustry.com/pdf/madler-gmbh/madler-catalogue/66929-171343-_392.html03/29/2012 at 4:00 pm #2306Even an end rod bearing that can go 360 degrees front and back and limited left to right movement.
http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit1207003/30/2012 at 2:13 am #2309Even an end rod bearing that can go 360 degrees front and back and limited left to right movement.
http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit12070%5B/quote%5DI’ve got something just like that that I’m working on (I think taken from your previous post):
I’d need to incorporate a could of changes to make it all work, most notably a way to lock the piece in place. I’ve got a couple different competing ideas about that. I’m interested in everyone’s thoughts.
Attachments:-Clay
03/30/2012 at 5:24 am #2314For those of you that want to perform your own home brew mod on this issue I posted a picture essay documenting my soulition using Automotive Feeler guages. It took about 1 hour and a $5 investment. Untill WE comes up with a new re-designed arm assembly, I am happy with this home brew mod.
click on this link to see the photos and description : http://www.dansranch.com/weps/
03/30/2012 at 6:02 am #2315For those of you that want to perform your own home brew mod on this issue I posted a picture essay documenting my soulition using Automotive Feeler guages. It took about 1 hour and a $5 investment. Untill WE comes up with a new re-designed arm assembly, I am happy with this home brew mod.
click on this link to see the photos and description : http://www.dansranch.com/weps/%5B/quote%5D
Thank you for posting your mod, it’s a very nice and elegant solution!
-Clay
03/30/2012 at 7:18 am #2316Clay I was thinking the end rod bearing would go into where the linkage is so no real mods have to be done to the unit. To basically replace the black part and the other joint.
Hope it is ok I used one of your pic’s
BassLakeDan03/30/2012 at 9:01 am #2318I’m looking at this now, but not sure if there would be adequate range of motion with the middle rod running through it in that dimension. It looks like it would need to be rotated 90 degrees to get the proper range of motion.
-Clay
05/25/2012 at 7:07 am #3306I got Subway straws and they are too tight to slide over the rods.
I don’t think they would even go on with lube.
Anyone else have this problem?
Glen05/25/2012 at 11:06 am #3312I tried straws from about 8 different sources. All were too big or too small in ID. I got some from Subway and they fit perfectly. They are just a little snug, but you want that. I did not have to use any lubrication. That was about a month or so ago. I think there were quite a few people that got the Subway straws and they worked… and that was from several different areas of the country. I thought they were all getting them from the same source. Hopefully they haven’t changed their supplier or something. I will have to go by my local subway and pick up a few more to see if they are different now than they were then. If they still work, maybe I should get a few for spares.
Phil
05/25/2012 at 12:27 pm #3316I wonder if you could heat the straws to make them expand slightly, and then slide them over the rods with a little WD-40 or something.
I have not tried this. But if you do, do not melt the straws! You don’t want that, as the straw will then deform and change thickness in uncontrolled ways. You want warm, but not melted. Maybe warm/hot tap water on the straws?
Sorry, just a random suggestion. I thought of this because of two things:
(1) When a jar cap was hard to open, my mother would heat it under hot water from the tap. The lid would expand, and it would be easier to open. I don’t know if this is because the cap heated more than the glass and/or the coefficient of expansion for metal is much larger than glass. The latter is true, the former is probably true too, but I’m not sure.
(2) In metal-work, there are extremely tight and nearly-permanent friction-fit parts. These are done by heating one part (say a precision hole) to make it thermally expand just enough enough for another part to fit (say an axel). After the two parts are joined, they let the hot part cool down to normal temperature, and by thermal-contraction it super-tightly squeezes the other piece. This is only a friction fit, but it can be so exceptionally tight that it is effectively a solid-join. In some machines, such a join is even used to transmit mechanical power.
Sincerely,
–Lagrangian05/25/2012 at 1:11 pm #3317i took straws from mc donalds they were to small but i just cut them open and it works well i think.
martin05/25/2012 at 4:25 pm #3320Even the straw from Subway in the Netherlands fit the rods perfectly 😆 .
However, they fitted the stones less perfectly. What I mean is that the stones did not move on the rods easily anymore. I guess you need some play for the stones to move freely on the rods.
Everyone has their own taste! (“Mustard, mayonnaise, buffalo or vinaigrette, sir?” 😉 )
Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge
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