Linkage play–your technique for consistency?

[don griffith]

Not mentioned much, if ever, is the effect of axial arm/paddle play and linkage play on the angle. Using the Angle Cube one can see fully a 1.5° angle change on my WEPS depending on how one holds the paddle.

The variation is the sum of the paddle and linkage play when you push the paddle in or pull the paddle out at the bottom. I think the best method is to push in, because it takes less effort, and if you relax your concentration, your hands will naturally fall inward.

When I want to check the nominal angle symmetry during setup–knife edge centered–I let the paddle drop all the way down so the link snuggles into the paddle’s concave recess. This becomes my nominal angle, but likely not the exact angle depending on how I handle the handle…. 🙂

How do others handle this? (no pun intended)

[wickededge]

Not mentioned much, if ever, is the effect of axial arm/paddle play and linkage play on the angle. Using the Angle Cube one can see fully a 1.5° angle change on my WEPS depending on how one holds the paddle.

The variation is the sum of the paddle and linkage play when you push the paddle in or pull the paddle out at the bottom. I think the best method is to push in, because it takes less effort, and if you relax your concentration, your hands will naturally fall inward.

When I want to check the nominal angle symmetry during setup–knife edge centered–I let the paddle drop all the way down so the link snuggles into the paddle’s concave recess. This becomes my nominal angle, but likely not the exact angle depending on how I handle the handle…. 🙂

How do others handle this? (no pun intended)

I do much the same thing and find that it stays very consistent throughout use. Of course I’m always happy to perform the modification for eliminating the play if you’d like to send your rods in.

-Clay

[don griffith]

Thanks, but I’m not complaining about anything, just wondered what others do, and what would you fix? You can’t change the OD of the arm nor the ID of the paddle. I suppose the taper pins could be removed with a drift punch and small diameter non-metallic washers installed to take up the gap between the arm and link. Which end of the pin is the small end? 🙂
Otherwise, no worries.

[wickededge]

Thanks, but I’m not complaining about anything, just wondered what others do, and what would you fix? You can’t change the OD of the arm nor the ID of the paddle. I suppose the taper pins could be removed with a drift punch and small diameter non-metallic washers installed to take up the gap between the arm and link. Which end of the pin is the small end? 🙂
Otherwise, no worries.

The big end is fluted so it cuts grooves in the aluminum when it’s pushed in. For the mod, I push the pins out, tap one side and replace the pin with a #8-32 button head cap screw and some very little washers. You’re right that there is not much to do about the OD of the arm vs. the ID of the paddle.

-Clay

[Marion]

If you will be doing this mod for someone in the near or even distant and unforseeable future, could you make a video of it please?

[Scott Babineaux]

Clay,

If you want to mod a set of swing arms for me I’ll call Kay and get the order placed.

[CAWalter]

Due to the arm’s tab width I stayed with the .125″ hole and use a 5-40 bolt with enough unthreaded shaft to ride on, and a nylock nut. The tab thickness tapers, so that was squared up. Now there isn’t any play and the action is smooth. Haven’t addressed the paddle to arm, but reaming the paddle and pressing in a bronze bushing would do. Not going there for a while as it really is very little. 😛

CAW

[Bruce Guignard]

Am I correct is assuming that the modification is something I need to have done if I want a mirror finish but not necessarily for everyday sharpening? Can I get a mirror finish without it but using the consistency mentioned here?

Thanks.

[Scott Babineaux]

You can get a mirror finish without this modification easily.

In my opinion this mod is for the OCD guys like me that want absolute precision out of the WEPS. The play in the swing arms and paddles can leave you working two slightly different bevel angles while sharpening your knife. I have found myself applying a slight “torque” on the paddles to force all of the play out. I’m going to call and order a set of the modified swing arms so I can continue to use my WEPS. Regarding the play between the arm and the paddles; I have wrapped my arms in a single layer of blue painters tape. I estimate this removed 2/3 to 3/4 of the play. There is a bit of friction due to the tape but it’s not bad and seems to decrease the longer it’s on.

[Devron Limerick]

1. What would the arm mod cost?
2. Do you think it is possible to do a core charge based swap where we can pay for the mod but keep our arms… then when we get the modded arms, send our originals back to you to avoid a core charge… or just pay the core charge to get a complete new set of arms?

I really don’t want to be without arms for any period of time.

[Scott Babineaux]

I’ve ordered the modified arms; now what is everyone(anyone) doing to remove the play bewteen the swing arms and the paddles? I’ve used blue painters tape and it does help but must be re-applied over time and it does drag on the paddles a bit.

[wickededge]

Due to the arm’s tab width I stayed with the .125″ hole and use a 5-40 bolt with enough unthreaded shaft to ride on, and a nylock nut. The tab thickness tapers, so that was squared up. Now there isn’t any play and the action is smooth. Haven’t addressed the paddle to arm, but reaming the paddle and pressing in a bronze bushing would do. Not going there for a while as it really is very little. 😛

CAW

I’ve been messing with bronze bushings (since reading this suggestion) and the action is very smooth, all the play is eliminated. The only issue I’m having is a slight clicking as the end of the rod hits the inside edge of the bushing. Any ideas?

-Clay

[Josh]

I also was one who modded the joints at the base of the rod arms… i basically disassembled the joints and reinforced themip with some PB washers… it now doesn’t have any play in the joints anymore at least! i did have to sand the OD of the washers down some to make them work. as far as the play in between the paddles and rods I. haven’t found any way to fix this yet unless I just want to have some new ones made with a bigger OD. what I have noticed is that if you do a lot of smaller strokes per side instead of one long stroke per side, you will make sure you reach all the way to the edge. if you do one long stroke, then your angle actually changes by one or two degrees by the time you reach the tip. hope this helps!

[Scott Babineaux]

Clay, what are the specs on the bushing you are using?

Regarding your question, do you mean a slight clicking as the end of the rod near the base of the swivel where it widens?

[Scott Babineaux]

I found some nylon bushings I’m going to try. ID is 0.240 so that leaves about 0.005 clearance for the rods. OD is 0.312 so I’ll have to ream about 0.042 wider so they fit tight. I’ll keep you posted on the progress. Clay have you found one method for counter boring the paddles better than another. I have 5/16 fostner bit that should work well and leave a square surface for the bushings to adhere to.

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