Lapping the Micro-Fine Ceramics
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- This topic has 33 replies, 15 voices, and was last updated 07/12/2013 at 10:22 pm by Daniel maloon.
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07/20/2012 at 10:08 am #4169
Cliff Stamp has posted elsewhere that these stones definitely benefit from lapping. Today I worked on my set and it made a huge difference. You can easily use the diamond stones in your set to lap your ceramics and depending on which grit you use to finish, you can dramatically alter the way the stone performs. My coarse Micro-Fine stones were more coarse than I wanted at the moment, so I took them all the way up to the 1000# diamonds, progressing from the 100# stones up the line. I also have a 3um diamond bench stone that I used to finish and the coarse Micro-Fines were like a whole different set of stones. I can see where there might be times when I want to add a little texture back to them to give certain knives a little bite, so I’ll experiment with lapping on different grit stones and see what comes of it.
-Clay
07/20/2012 at 11:38 am #4172Clay, This is very helpful. I did not really notice the aggressiveness of the mirco-fine ceramics. I will try it with the higher grit diamond stones. I am very satisfied with the micro-fine ceramics. For my purposes they produce excellent results. If the micro-fine ceramics had been available 6 months ago, I may not have been so determined to buy the Choseras and Shaptons, but I like them all for different reasons. The micro-fine ceramics are the best value (IMO).
Ralph
07/20/2012 at 3:21 pm #4176Ralph,
So are you going from the 1000 grit diamonds to the micro-fine ceramic paddles, or are you using something between them first?07/20/2012 at 10:21 pm #4177My coarse Micro-Fine stones were more coarse than I wanted at the moment, so I took them all the way up to the 1000# diamonds, progressing from the 100# stones up the line. I also have a 3um diamond bench stone that I used to finish and the coarse Micro-Fines were like a whole different set of stones.
Was just wondering why the lapping progression vs. just lapping on just the finer stone,,, or maybe just the 1000 & 3um?
How much time on each stone did you spend? I’m guessing this doesn’t take much?
Any idea how much of the ceramic (thickness) this used?
Thanks!
cbw
07/20/2012 at 10:49 pm #4178Steven, After the 1000 grit diamond stone, I use the super-fine ceramics and then the micro-fine. I have not yet tried going directly to the micro-fine ceramics from the 1000 grit. I will give it a try this weekend.
Ralph
07/20/2012 at 11:50 pm #4181I started lapping with the 800 grit and it was going well but there were a couple high spots so I decided to knock those off with the coarse stones. I didn’t measure before I started and now I wish I had, but I can’t imagine I removed more the a couple thousandths judging from the material that came off.
My coarse Micro-Fine stones were more coarse than I wanted at the moment, so I took them all the way up to the 1000# diamonds, progressing from the 100# stones up the line. I also have a 3um diamond bench stone that I used to finish and the coarse Micro-Fines were like a whole different set of stones.
Was just wondering why the lapping progression vs. just lapping on just the finer stone,,, or maybe just the 1000 & 3um?
How much time on each stone did you spend? I’m guessing this doesn’t take much?
Any idea how much of the ceramic (thickness) this used?
Thanks!
cbw[/quote]
-Clay
07/25/2012 at 12:45 am #4244I wanted to do a couple more knives before I posted this. I could tell the coarse Micro-fine was more coarse than rated… but as an alternative to lapping, I’ve been using it after the 1000g diamond, which seems to set up the edge better for the rest of the ceramics. So. I’ll go Coarse Micro-fine. –> 1200 –> 1600 ceramics –> Fine Micro-fine… then onto leather (if desired). 🙂
Just thought I’d present an alternate use that I’m liking.
07/25/2012 at 1:18 am #4245That’s exactly what I was doing before I lapped my coarse Micro-fine stones and it worked great. Now that they’re all smoothed out, I’ll have to see if it still works well in that progression.
I wanted to do a couple more knives before I posted this. I could tell the coarse Micro-fine was more coarse than rated… but as an alternative to lapping, I’ve been using it after the 1000g diamond, which seems to set up the edge better for the rest of the ceramics. So. I’ll go Coarse Micro-fine. –> 1200 –> 1600 ceramics –> Fine Micro-fine… then onto leather (if desired). 🙂
Just thought I’d present an alternate use that I’m liking.
-Clay
08/26/2012 at 6:10 am #5004what is “um” and how does it relate to grit numbers? I.E. how many um’s to a grit or a 100 grit for example or perhaps vice versa? What grit would a stone be to equal a “um” or a fixed quantity of “um’s”?
Thanks.
Scott08/26/2012 at 10:56 am #5021Good question Scott. um is the abbreviation for Micron. Here is a chart that shows how they all compare: Grit Comparison Chart
what is “um” and how does it relate to grit numbers? I.E. how many um’s to a grit or a 100 grit for example or perhaps vice versa? What grit would a stone be to equal a “um” or a fixed quantity of “um’s”?
Thanks.
Scott-Clay
09/04/2012 at 11:07 pm #5358O.K. So I think I’m picking up what you are putting down, however I am a visual learner. Is there a video on lapping the ceramics? Should I lap similar to how one would flatten a Chosera water stone, I certainly do not want to ruin my new micro fines and I have a set of fine stones coming so a little education here would be helpful.
11/23/2012 at 2:31 am #7518I know this is a somewhat older post but I was wondering if the lapping was just for initial usage and getting the aggressiveness of the ceramics right or if they will need to be flattened like natural stones do?
11/23/2012 at 5:01 am #7525It’s mostly the initial usage and to get the aggressiveness right.
11/23/2012 at 6:52 am #7528What Curtis said… the ceramic stones are VERY hard. I was suprised and how much I had to work them on a coarse diamond plate to see any difference at all. They should do many , many knives before you would have any dishing.
If you meaure them with a traight edge, and they need flattening, be prepared for some hard work.BTW, I tried the crosshatching trick to indicate when the stone is flat with a permananet marker. Apparently it penetrates the ceramic.. I never have been able to get it out of the one stone. If you are going to do this, use a pencil…
Phil
11/23/2012 at 2:18 pm #7541Thanks guys!
I was actually wondering if it was just my imagination since my course ultra-fine seemed to be courser than the 1600 stones. I’ll try lapping them on my DMT extra fine unless you guys think something courser is necessary. -
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