Hey all. Just ordered up an Wicked Edge Pro Pack

[Charles Turner]

Craig, if you don’t mind me asking, I was wondering how long ago you placed your order? I ordered a pro pack II as well and I am chomping at the bit to get it! This wait is KILLING me!

[Craig Davis]

I ordered the unit a day before I started this thread from Bob (Oldawan–he has posted in this thread). It would have shipped sooner but he was waiting for the rod ends and I told him to just ship the whole unit together. I would definitely recommend him as it seems he normally has everything in-stock, his communication is excellent with order updates and he seems very knowledgeable regarding sharpening and stones.

[Eamon Mc Gowan]

I would definitely recommend him as it seems he normally has everything in-stock, his communication is excellent with order updates and he seems very knowledgeable regarding sharpening and stones.[/quote]

+1

[Craig Davis]

Allrighty!

I got home and assembled her and jumped right in. Started with an old Buck 110 for practice.

That worked pretty well so I chucked-up my newest EDC–a Benchmade Grip in CPM M4 with scales from Keyman. She came out really nice but I did not work-up a burr the first time around (still learning…).

Then I got my wa-gyuto kitchen knife (which is a huge part of why I got the WEPS). That knife is REALLY thin and is much different than “normal” knives. Different in the way it flexes, sounds when sharpening, the blade is sandwiched steel and it’s much longer than what I had played with thus far. It came out nice too.

After another japanese-style paring knife I got a couple Randall Made Knives out. I have been collecting these for around 15 years and have quite a few that I am not affraid to use. Here’s a Model 26 Pathfinder with desert ironwood and black and brass spacers:

Here’s a Model 8 Trout and Bird knife. The top is sharpened for chopping and I touched that up first (was a little tricky to get the base to hold it due to the tapers):

And my temporary case (until I find what I want):

So I thought I would mention a few things I learned on my first date with the WEPS.

1. I wasted time when I did not raise a burr initially.

2. The coarse diamond stones remove steel fast. It really didn’t seem to matter what type of steel it was. I put a 17° edge on my CPM M4 and it really didn’t take long at all to raise a burr.

3. I didn’t do so well with the Strops. Good thing they only cost $40. I was trying to go to fast on my wa-gyuto and they don’t look so new anymore.

4. You really can hear and feel when a stone is done.

5. I put micro bevels on all the blades I did today. A moth ago I had never even heard of a micro bevel. I put around 25° with the fine ceramic lightly for this edge.

6. You must stop sharpening when there is no more hair on your arm.

7. I still have a ton to learn.

[Phil Pasteur]

6. You must stop sharpening when there is no more hair on your arm.

Nope, you still have two legs… and a chest to work on..
😆

I like the enthusiasm.. but take your time.

Keep it coming.

Phil

[Craig Davis]

6. You must stop sharpening when there is no more hair on your arm.

Nope, you still have two legs… and a chest to work on..
😆

I like the enthusiasm.. but take your time.

Keep it coming.

Phil[/quote]
I didn’t want to mention that both legs and chest are now bare… :huh:

Probably the most amazing thing I saw was how the blade really shined when I used the Micro Fine Ceramics. The real test will be with the loupe but I bet it won’t look nearly as good under the microscope.

[Mark76]

Nice pictures! Your table fits the WEPS base fine 😉 .

1. I wasted time when I did not raise a burr initially.

2. The coarse diamond stones remove steel fast. It really didn’t seem to matter what type of steel it was. I put a 17° edge on my CPM M4 and it really didn’t take long at all to raise a burr.

3. I didn’t do so well with the Strops. Good thing they only cost $40. I was trying to go to fast on my wa-gyuto and they don’t look so new anymore.

Sounds like the top 3 of things everybody has to go through when starting with the WEPS.

6. You must stop sharpening when there is no more hair on your arm.

Your next ambition should be facial hair 🙂 .

Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

[Craig Davis]

So tonight I sharpened four blades. All went OK (still learning) except a fixed SOG knife. This knife has temporarily kicked my ass.

The SOG blade is tapered and does not have a flat place to mount it in the Wicked Edge base. For this reason, no matter how I tried to mount it, it was not mounted as tightly as it should have been. I started over three times from 100 grit to strops and it just is like it should be…

The only thing I can think is that the knife moves in the base slightly because of the tapered blade making the base only hold the blade on the very edge. Actually, I have to sight the blade while working it as it moves slightly. I wish my loupe was here so I could actually see what I’m doing.

Is there a way to clamp this type of blade up in the WEPS? I had to stop for the night…

[Chet Parks]

Craig,
I use “electrical friction tape” on all my knives, it really locks and holds the knife in the vice with no residue and no over tightening. Another thing and I know it won’t help with the SOG but with folders, especially those with heavy handles is I fold the handle up 90 degrees so I don’t have all that weight of the handle hanging out there.
Chet

[cbwx34]

The SOG blade is tapered and does not have a flat place to mount it in the Wicked Edge base…

Is there a way to clamp this type of blade up in the WEPS?

Have you seen the Sharpening a Full Flat Ground Blade page?

In addition to Chet’s idea, I use a thin piece of leather to hold some blades, others have recently said using a piece of Moleskin works well.

[Craig Davis]

Craig,
I use “electrical friction tape” on all my knives, it really locks and holds the knife in the vice with no residue and no over tightening. Another thing and I know it won’t help with the SOG but with folders, especially those with heavy handles is I fold the handle up 90 degrees so I don’t have all that weight of the handle hanging out there.
Chet

I have read about using friction tape. I will give it a try. I’ve not had any issues with this until I tried to sharpen a blade with a full taper and no flat areas to grab.

Thanks for taking the time to help.

Craig

[Craig Davis]

The SOG blade is tapered and does not have a flat place to mount it in the Wicked Edge base…

Is there a way to clamp this type of blade up in the WEPS?

Have you seen the Sharpening a Full Flat Ground Blade page?

In addition to Chet’s idea, I use a thin piece of leather to hold some blades, others have recently said using a piece of Moleskin works well.[/quote]

I have not seen the Full Flat Ground Blade page. Guess what I will be reading…

Thanks for the info.

Craig

[wickededge]

‘ve not had any issues with this until I tried to sharpen a blade with a full taper and no flat areas to grab.

Thanks for taking the time to help.

Craig

I just sharpened 4 railroad spike knives that a guy sent in. They are very thick and have a radical taper, both from spine to edge and heel to tip – absolutely nothing close to parallel on those blades. I used friction tape on them and it worked great. The heel-to-tip taper was so pronounced that I had to put an extra piece of tape, folded up on the far half of each jaw to fill in the extra space. Once I did that, they knives locked in very solidly.

-Clay

[cbwx34]

Photos!!! :woohoo: 🙂

[wickededge]

Here is the spike knife in the clamp:

Attachments:

• spike-1.jpg
• spike-2.jpg

-Clay

[Author]

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