Help with this knife
- This topic has 5 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 05/18/2016 at 7:26 am by
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In this case, having the blade tipped up might be part of the problem… try level or tipping it down a bit. Level should work, and be easy to repeat.
Also, many knives come with tips ground at a little higher angle, especially from the factory. As the blade curves toward the tip, it often goes into thicker metal, so the angle is adjusted so the bevel appears even. So it might take a little extra work in that area.
This info might also help you:
Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge
cbwx34 pretty much nailed the points I would have suggested, but it’s also important to keep in mind that when you have a clipped point type of profile and mounted horizontally, the distance from the vise to the tip can radically change the angle. That said, I think the position shown in your photos is actually quite good if your intent is to achieve a uniform bevel angle.
I will expand a bit on one of cbwx34’s points… The thickness of the blade at the bevel shoulder is almost always greater at the tip. To avoid weakening the tip, makers will chose to keep more “meat” in the spine near the tip. If the spine at the tip were as slender as the blade is thin at the bevel near the heel, the tip would almost certainly have a short life expectancy. Looking down on the tip, you’ll see the included angle and how the bevels are wider because of this. It’s this relationship which is requiring the removal of so much steel near the tip.
If you would rather duplicate the original bevels, consider moving the blade to a horizontal position. Moving the blade tip closer to or farther from the vise as you use the Sharpie method will let you match the bevel more closely.
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I would sharpen separately main edge and tip edge. Reclamp for the tip and increase angle.
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I would sharpen separately main edge and tip edge. Reclamp for the tip and increase angle.
I wouldn’t recommend this, unless there’s a specific reason, for example a very long blade or tanto blade. The blade in this post shouldn’t be an issue setting up and sharpening as one unit.
Reclamping during sharpening adds issues you really don’t need to deal with, like blending the edge, easily setting up for touchups or resharpening, adding microbevels, etc. Can be done, but really don’t see a need in this case.
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