GO vs. 130 – Decisions, Decisions
- This topic has 24 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 05/21/2018 at 2:37 pm by
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I just gotta add my two cents worth re hand-sharpening as a complement to the WEPS. I figured the same idea when I first got my WEPS, but the only time I’ve ever used my old stones has been to compare the results with the WEPS – and to see how bad I really was at it. Once I looked at the hand-sharpened edges and compared them to my WE edges under the USB microscope, I forgot the idea entirely. The SharpMaker bevels were pretty crude and the WorkSharp edges looked like a plowed field. They were reasonably sharp, but not up to my standards. Maybe I could do “touch-ups” on the WorkSharp with the 3000-grit belt, but hand-sharpening? Not gonna happen.
Part of this was related to the amount of edge damage that occurred between sharpenings. Removing the amount of steel required to remove a significant chip was just so much easier with the WE, and I learned to hate edge damage. Hand-sharpening almost always produces a convex edge – which is a very good thing – but holding the angle perfectly is really difficult, even for experts. I’m going to guess that half of my hand-sharpening strokes fail to touch the apex. The upshot is that I no longer have confidence in my hand-sharpening skills, so there’s no motivation to go back to it. I haven’t tried it, but hand-sharpening with the aid of a loupe or microscope might be a big improvement.
3 inch folders are typically no problem as long as the blades aren’t narrow like on traditional slip joint folders. Take a look back through the forum and you will find hundreds of photos of EDC style folders that have been sharpened on the WE with great success.
Thanks Organic. I think most of the folders I have will be fine.
I just gotta add my two cents worth re hand-sharpening as a complement to the WEPS. I figured the same idea when I first got my WEPS, but the only time I’ve ever used my old stones has been to compare the results with the WEPS – and to see how bad I really was at it. Once I looked at the hand-sharpened edges and compared them to my WE edges under the USB microscope, I forgot the idea entirely. The SharpMaker bevels were pretty crude and the WorkSharp edges looked like a plowed field. They were reasonably sharp, but not up to my standards. Maybe I could do “touch-ups” on the WorkSharp with the 3000-grit belt, but hand-sharpening? Not gonna happen. Part of this was related to the amount of edge damage that occurred between sharpenings. Removing the amount of steel required to remove a significant chip was just so much easier with the WE, and I learned to hate edge damage. Hand-sharpening almost always produces a convex edge – which is a very good thing – but holding the angle perfectly is really difficult, even for experts. I’m going to guess that half of my hand-sharpening strokes fail to touch the apex. The upshot is that I no longer have confidence in my hand-sharpening skills, so there’s no motivation to go back to it. I haven’t tried it, but hand-sharpening with the aid of a loupe or microscope might be a big improvement.
Thanks for the thoughts. I think I’ll like just have some knives I sharpen on Bench Stones and some I sharpen on the Wicked Edge. I can see your point about free handing altering the more perfect edge from the Wicked Edge.
So as an update, I decided to bite the bullet and go with the WE 130 w/ the addition of the 800/1000 stones. Down the road I’ll add the 1500 grit. I thought about the Field and Stream but was just a little hesitant on how this would permanently mount to a base. I didn’t really want to do any drilling into a brand new system. I think the WE 130 will work fine. I have some Granite remnants laying around and I have a really heavy 12 x 18 or so cutting board that I can mount it do. I also have several larger pistol cases I can convert to hold the 130 if needed. Just placed the order this morning so with the free shipping, guessing it will get here next week. I will definitely posts some updates and progress thoughts and images if possible.
Thanks everyone for all the advise and thoughts. It was truly appreciated. That being said, feel free to keep it coming! 🙂
If you have the money and you want the best, buy the 130! I have both the GO and the 130. The GO is great and for people on a budget may be the best option. I would buy the GO over either the 100 or the 120 but the 130 is a more versatile and more accurate machine. You made the right choice I think, but with those options I don’t think you would have been wrong either way.
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If you have the money and you want the best, buy the 130! I have both the GO and the 130. The GO is great and for people on a budget may be the best option. I would buy the GO over either the 100 or the 120 but the 130 is a more versatile and more accurate machine. You made the right choice I think, but with those options I don’t think you would have been wrong either way.
Agreed. I got the 130 in on Friday and have it mounted up to a heavy cutting board. Unfortunately, this weekend was full of other commitments so I haven’t been able to try the 130 out yet. I might be this coming weekend before I can really give it a try. Just a crazy busy time for me right now.
Here is my system set up.
Do a few cheap knives that you don’t care about before you attempt sharpening your good blades. You’ll probably find that it takes a bit of getting used to the motion and a bit of practice to get a knife mounted the way you want it.
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Suggestion: I’d start with the more straight forward kitchen knives then move on to the folders when you have developed a technique and learned some basic skills.
Marc
(MarcH's Rack-Its)1 user thanked author for this post.
Suggestion: I’d start with the more straight forward kitchen knives then move on to the folders when you have developed a technique and learned some basic skills.
Good idea. I’ve got a few to ‘sacrifice”. I’ve got an old Buck 119 that needs a good edge on it as well.
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