Factory Edge

[Xbander]

I have a Spyderco Native that I have used and abused.
The Factory edge needed help, so it was Wicked edge time.
Thought I could just match the angles and touch it up.
After marking the blade edge in black, making several passes,
moving the knife back and forward in the vice, adjusting the angle,
I could never hit the mark to remove the majority of the marker.
It might be the 2.5in blade on the Spyderco, is just hard to match,
I know it is more a lack of skills on my part. :unsure:
Did end up just ignoring the factory edge, setting 18 degrees and reprofile
it with the 100 grit on up, it came out great.

Is there an easy setup when working to restore a factory edge?
Do many of you experiment to try and define your own personal touch?
Appreciate any tips?

[Leo James Mitchell]

I never concern myself too much with the factory edge. I think of what the knife will be used for or whatever edge I fancy and go right from scratch. This way I raise a burr I know is there and I know exactly what the edge is and its capabilities. I can’t remember any knife in my collection that has it’s factory edge…they are all mine!!!:woohoo:

All the best James
Leo

[cbwx34]

One thing about the Native is that the shape of the blade doesn’t work well with using both prongs of the guide to position the knife…

(Standard method)

If you tip the knife up so that the clamp is more parallel to the blade, that should help.

(Clamping with the blade edge parallel to the clamp)

Factory edges also aren’t always as even as they seem, sometimes it takes a good initial sharpening (regardless of how you sharpen) to get everything lined up. And like Leo said, they’re rarely sharpened for optimal performance… another advantage of doing it yourself.

Attachments:

• Native01.jpg
• Native02a.jpg

[Xbander]

Thank you Leo and Curtis

I was hung up trying to match the edge, as a beginner I am thinking way more about
the edge than how it will be used. I appreciate the advice to consider usage and edge.

Curtis the first photo (Standard Method) is exactly what I was doing.
I did eventually move the knife down to the lower holes and tilt it up at the point.
If I had asked these questions before starting I could have saved a couple hours for sure.

Very much appreciate the advice.

[Mark76]

The Spyderco Native isn’t in the knife database yet, but a lot of other Spyderco’s are:

http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_joodb&view=catalog&format=html&reset=false&ordering=&orderby=&Itemid=94&task=&search=spyderco&limit=10

Maybe that gives you some inspiration. The Sage 1, which is in the database, seems to have a blade of similar size.

Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

[Geocyclist]

Curtis, Thanks for the photos. This is a good idea, I had not really thought about the tilt of the knife in the vise before. But it makes sense to get the “main” part of the edge as parallel as possible.

One other thing is factory edges can be really bad. The bevels can different so one side may take more strokes than the other. The front or back of the bevel may also be different meaning you may have to spend some more strokes on a particular section. Make sure to get a burr along the entire edge, both sides.

[Gary Crumb]

One other thing is factory edges can be really bad. The bevels can different so one side may take more strokes than the other. The front or back of the bevel may also be different meaning you may have to spend some more strokes on a particular section. Make sure to get a burr along the entire edge, both sides.

I just got my SOG Vulcan on the WEPS a few days ago and the factory bevels bevels were pretty even. So I did a quick marker check on one bevel and started profiling. But, when I had both arms at 18 degrees, I was getting some very funky uneven bevels. After careful examination, I found that the hollow grind on the blade was a little uneven side to side and it was enough to throw the arm adjustments off by almost 5 degrees side to side. I ended up doing the re profiling at 17 on the left and 21 on the right to get the bevel close. So, another thing I now make sure to check is both sides…I had sometimes just been checking one side and then going to town. Up until this point it worked out but since finding this and checking both sides with the marker, I am getting much more consistent, even bevels.

[Tom Whittington]

I like to match the factory bevels in many cases just to keep the original look, and may micro-bevel if it’s not holding up or doesn’t cut as intended. I recently did a CRKT M16-13T (the titanium 3.5″ in the series) which uses a fun asymmetrical factory grind. I did have to reprofile a bit on the larger side of the bevel simply because of clamping difficulties, but it turned out very well!

There are just as many times where I’ll just throw out the factory bevel and reprofile as I see fit. All depends on the intent and whether or not the original setup is doing the job you want it to 🙂

[Mark76]

I like to match the factory bevels in many cases just to keep the original look

Very good reason in my opinion. I once saw a Strider reprofiled to 13 degrees. I’m sure the steel could take it, but it just didn’t look like a Strider anymore…

Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

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