EBAY PARTS legit or not?
- This topic has 4 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 03/07/2018 at 2:15 am by
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Johnny welcome to the Wicked Edge Forum. There is really no such thing as a “wrong angle”. The only thing about the angle that matters is that both of the individual bevel sides come together at a precise point along a straight line to create the sharp beveled knife edge. The more acute the angle is, the knife will be considered sharper and less durable or more likely to get damaged by use. The more obtuse the angle is, the edge is considered less sharp and more durable or robust and less susceptible to damage or wear with use. There are no list of certified angles we’re trying to accomplish requiring we use certified Wicked Edge Arms. We’re just matching the best practical angles with the knife’s shape, knife’s use and knife’s steel.
Most, or at least, a lot of experienced Wicked Edge sharpeners use a Digital Angle Guide, like this one, to measure the relative bevel angles to assure each side has been set and adjusted precisely and evenly. We only use the angle bar scribed increments as an indicator, not as a reference to set the actual bevel angle. The scribed angle bar increments can vary greatly from the actual measured angles depending on the size, shape, style and clamping position of the knife being sharpened.
My experience has been that many sellers on Ebay are legit WE users just selling their older parts as they’ve replaced them with the newer versions offered by WE. Some of the Ebay parts are offered by the machine shops that made parts for Wicked Edge and had manufacturing over runs that were never bought by WE.
Marc
(MarcH's Rack-Its)3 users thanked author for this post.
Johnny, FWIW, the degree marks on the bar are only approximations and are ~ accurate for only one size of blade. An angle cube is needed for more precise measurements.
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<p style=”text-align: center;”> Thanks for clarifying so it shouldnt matter as long as it is equivalent on each sides but to form a correct angle on each side with precision an angle cube will provide the universal specs that would be easier to recreate. So now i will be off to get a cube and i can verify how accurate i am coming onto each side! Thanks everybody</p>
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I’ve got an FWIW, too. I long ago flipped my degree bars around so I could lock the position of the rod assemblies anywhere I wished (this eliminated the detents). This became a viable method when WE came out with the micro-adjustments. I use an angle-cube for all set-ups and the only reason I ever even look at the degree numbers is when I want to make an easy incremental move, where precision isn’t necessary. An example would be when I drop the angles by 1-2 degrees for stropping. Another example might be when making a convex profile. The object is to blend the facets (bevels) so the exact angle is not important. Eyeballing the degree marks relative to either edge of the slider is accurate enough.
You’ll love the angle cube.
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