Dual Bevel and Stone Motion Techniques.

[Sam Andrews]

I purchased a Wicked Edge Pro Pack 1 system earlier this year.
Thought I better try a blog entry to tell every one how pleased
and amazed I have been with the results from this sharpener.

I began followed the basic instructions progressing from the the 400
to 1000 grit stones on the initial knives and was really pleased with
the results. I was getting very sharp edges right from the start.
I noticed though that the diamond scratches on the side of the edge
bevel was causing some drag, even more so on the Crucible steels like
S30V. That observation put me on a mission to try to figure out how
to smooth out the side bevels, yet leave a nice cutting edge. My
first experiment was to use the stones in a low angle cross hatch
motion (1 stroke forward, 1 stroke back). I have been really pleased
with the results of this procedure. Progressing from the coarse to
fine stones with the cross hatch motion makes a very smooth surgical
edge and a fine mat finish on the bevel that has very minimal drag.
For many cuts on more fibrous items, the cutting edge done this way
is so smooth, it just kind of rides on the top. I figured out I better
put a bit more toothy serrations back on the edge for general purpose
cutting. For this I started using the 200 or 400 grit stones with
a few strokes at right angles straight into the blade to make some
serrations, then follow up with a few strokes of the 1000 grit stones
and strops using the cross hatch motion. An optimal number of strokes
sharpens the serrations razor sharp and nicely rounds the edges off the
scratches on side bevels. I was so excited with these results, I have
was thinking I would never need to make a better edge. Then I
started reading further and trying to absorb all the information in
the Wicked Edge videos and blogs. (That may take awhile) I happened
to come across the link to the Face book blog and videos. I had a jaw
dropping moment when I came across the video of Clay demonstrating the
dual/micro bevel technique. I had big wow moment thinking about the
the possibilities of making an optimal separate smooth finish for the main
bevel area and an optimal second grind for the cutting edge. The perfect
solution for my quest of making smooth side bevels. I picked up the 1200/1600
ceramic stones to make the ultra smooth primary bevel finishes (nice stones).
I have been experimenting with 5 deg. second bevels as Clay demonstrated, down
to 2 deg. bevels. (All work fine). The last set of folding knives I did,
I shape and polish the primary bevel down to the 1600 grit ceramics, then
put on 2 deg. second bevels with 400 grit serrations finished up with a
couple of light cross hatch strokes with the 1000 and 1600 stones and leather
strops. The 2 deg. bevels blend nicely into the primary bevel and look good.
200 grit serrations are the best for a lot of heavy cutting, but the 400 grit
serrations seem to be a nice balance for covering all types of cutting.
I wonder if a 300 grit might be the best average for the serration
technique. Maybe if WE gets the bug to make some intermediate stones,
they could start with a 300?

I have been totally impressed with the results of the dual bevel with
micro serrations technique. The edges on the knives I have done so far
are more consistent and cut like nothing I have ever seen before. Thanks
to Clay for showing how to get the most out of the WE system.

Lately I have been doing some experiments to see how well I can sharpen
some of the less expensive softer steels like 420, 440A, and 7CR17.
They don’t seem to take much of an edge when they are polished with
the fine stones on the WE sharpener. I started getting fairly good
cutting edges when I put on real coarse serrations. Cutting was better
but the knives had a coarse scratchy feel. Going outside the box I
decided to try a carbide cutter sharpening tool on these knives. I
discovered I was getting a much better edge on some steels cutting the
edge with the carbide tool than grinding with diamonds.
(The carbide tool from Sharpens Best works very well.)
Working with the carbide cutter for awhile I noticed it made more even
edges when the bevel near the edge is well prepared first. I have
been quite pleased with a technique combining the WE and carbide tools.
First I prepare the primary bevel the same as for other knives with the
dual bevel edge, shape and polish smooth down to the 1600 grit stones.
Then apply the thin edge bevel with the carbide tool. I try to hold
a steady accurate bevel angle and set the cutting angle more upright
and tilted a bit. Cut with light even steady strokes both directions
along the blade. Test for burrs and see how it cuts, then finish up
with the leather strops. I have some old 420 knives and some of the
new Shrade blades cutting quite well with this technique.
(Might not be feasible to implement, but kind of gets my imagination
going wondering if a Carbide cutter attachment from WE might be a cool
thing?)

I am blown away with what I have been able to do with the WE system
so far. I am sure the learning is just beginning though.
Hopefully what I have done so far is worth sharing (and correcting).
Best Wishes from Colorado.
Sam A.

Carbide tool reference: http://www.sharpensbest.com

[tcmeyer]

Great first post, Sam. Welcome aboard!

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