Dimples

[Victor]

I have the WEProPack-1. When using the angle cube during set up, since set screw is needle point and machined dimples on base bar is far from accurate in relation to the angle cube, I have found dimples on base bar is more of an hindrance when set screw is snugged, due to the fact set screw can land on any part of the dimple’s curvature for an chosen angle – ended up with false tightness. Few times, inadvertently came loosen and affected the preset angle.

Since I am basing my angle with an angle cube, I am thinking milling an “V” groove in place of the existing dimples to aid, while setting up angle. Milled “V” groove will provide an consistent flat “V” channel to mate with the provided set screw for more accurate angle set up.

Anyone ever tried that?

[Nick Middleton]

I found myself fighting the same issue.
I thought about the groove too, but I’m lazy and decided to take a different approach:
I reversed the bar so the dimples point to the back. Then I swapped out the thumbscrews for cap-head allen-screws that have the same threads and a head that fits the same key as the vice.
The new screws are flat at the ends so they grab the bar well. This allows me to hand-tighten them so I can slide the arms in and out and carefully make micro-adjustments then snug them with the key.
Now I have infinite adjustment and I can tighten it more than I could have by hand so it doesn’t come loose on me mid-sharpening anymore.
I do uses a my own allen wrench that has a 90 degree end so the base doesn’t block my access to the arms, although it is still possible.

Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2

[Victor]

Right on!!

Thanks for thinking outside the box. I was a little caught up with that uncertain tightening itch!

Save me the time to set up/mill and preserving the existing plating finish. Thank you!

[tcmeyer]

I think maybe your locking screws are too sharp. The ends should be lightly radiused so they easily find the full depth of the detent pockets.

When I upgraded to the PP2 level, I too turned my bar around. The PP2 ball-joint mounts are tapped on both sides so they are not “handed” (can be used on either side). Many of us have added a lever-style locking screw on the front side, but still have the detent screws available on the back. I use them both. Why? If I want to make an angle change which is incremental, it’s easier to use the detent screws than monkeying around with the AngleCube. I also use the front locking lever to make it more secure.

Here’s a pic showing the set-up.

Attachments:

• Lockingscrews.jpg

[Victor]

Another great idea!

Could you point me to where I can get the lever-style locking screw?

TIA!

[Mikedoh]

Try a look thru this thread

http://www.wickededgeusa.com/forum/13-product-announcements/12675-thin-blade-support

[Victor]

Thank you so much for the linked thread, very interesting.

Lots of helpful members here to share useful information.

[tcmeyer]

If you want, I can actually give you the part numbers and such… Aw heck, here they are:

McMaster.com Part numbers:
6522K28 Stainless Steel Adjustable Handle, 10-32, 1-3/16 long screw
60205K51 Stainless Steel Knurled Rim Knob, 3/16″ hole

You have to epoxy the knob onto the screw. It doesn’t need to be real robust, as you only spin it with your thumb.

[Victor]

Right on!

Mahalo!

[Mark76]

I found myself fighting the same issue.

Welcome to the forum, Nick! :cheer: Thanks for chiming in.

Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

[Nick Middleton]

Thanks Mark! I’ve been lurking for the last 6 weeks since I got my WEPS. This was the first topic I felt I had any thing to contribute.

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