Damaged knife tip

[SHVentus]

This is my older SA EDC knife that has had this damaged tip for some time. How would you guys suggest fixing it? Thanks 🙂

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• IMG_0453.jpg
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[Leo Barr]

you could put the spine on a file and take it down to the centre of the break then do the same on the bevel so you keep the same shape then redo the bevel on the tip area until it blends in with the main bevel then resharpen the bevel as a whole .This is possible the most difficult method but it will be the best .
Another way is to set up the stones to the correct bevel angle and concentrate on the curved part until the point is reformed .
It is small amount of damage so will be easy to correct plus you have the small blade to refer to as a guide for the correct shape.
I would expect that which ever method you choose it will not take long to repair,
You may find that the Tormec small knife holder is worth getting since it makes knives of this size much easier to work on.
you will find pictures somewhere on the forum of this Tormec skh mounted in the WE vice.

[wickededge]

Leo is right about using the stones on the spine. I’d also offer that you can use the stone at 90 degrees to the edge to reshape the belly. Once you’ve reshaped the spine and belly, then reestablish the bevels and sharpen.

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-Clay

[SHVentus]

Thanks guys! Sound advice. Need to order the Tormek skh from Amazon. 🙂

[Josh]

On folders, most of the time, I recommend and I myself grind from the spine side. The reason for this is two fold.

If you sharpen from the edge side:

1. You will end up w/ a wider bevel at the tip
2. The tip of the knife may not seat fully in the handle.

Hope it goes well!

[tcmeyer]

I agree, but there is another option: forego the work on the bevel and simply grind the spine-side of the tip down to where it meets the forward-most point of the remaining edge, following a gentle arc profile. You’d need a belt sander or grinder, but this wouldn’t require any special skill or care in re-establishing the tip and would take a lot less time. The shape will be a little different but the usability will be the same. Of course, you’d lose one or two mm in blade length.

[Josh]

I agree, but there is another option: forego the work on the bevel and simply grind the spine-side of the tip down to where it meets the forward-most point of the remaining edge, following a gentle arc profile. You’d need a belt sander or grinder, but this wouldn’t require any special skill or care in re-establishing the tip and would take a lot less time. The shape will be a little different but the usability will be the same. Of course, you’d lose one or two mm in blade length.

That’s exactly what I was saying to do Tom lol!! But thanks for clarifying… must not have been clear. 😉 And he would not need a belt sander necessarily… He can do that on the 100’s and then progress up through the grits to the 1k. Then he can hit it on one of his strops and you won’t even be able to tell that it was ever not factory.

[Leo Barr]

Thats a very good point I have one of those Lansky world legal folding knives I should add fantastic value it has an odd tip that is semi hooked & I sharpened it off the blade tip does not sit between the scales it would make sense on this knife to grind down from the spine to correct this glitch .
I think I will do it slowly over progressive sharpenings since I have not cut myself since I put it point down into my pocket.
The Lansky has various facets that will make it an easy job to keep the point from becoming too thick.
It is a fantastic knife for the price with ac hunky blade so I use it where I would not use a normal EDC.
http://lansky.com/index.php/products/world-legal/

[Josh]

Thats a very good point I have one of those Lansky world legal folding knives I should add fantastic value it has an odd tip that is semi hooked & I sharpened it off the blade tip does not sit between the scales it would make sense on this knife to grind down from the spine to correct this glitch .
I think I will do it slowly over progressive sharpenings since I have not cut myself since I put it point down into my pocket.
The Lansky has various facets that will make it an easy job to keep the point from becoming too thick.
It is a fantastic knife for the price with ac hunky blade so I use it where I would not use a normal EDC.
http://lansky.com/index.php/products/world-legal/%5B/quote%5D

thanks for sharing Leo! That is a nice little EDC! I did not know lansky made knives! Interesting edge shape w/ multiple recurves it looks like.

[CliffCurry]

Similar modification done to a Spyderco Delica:

Found it as I was searching for Delica scales. This is produced by Kahr Arms. I really like the desert tan but seems to be only available in the stubby version.

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• Spyderco-Kahr-Arms-Delicas2-500×333.jpg

[tcmeyer]

Those are very nice, Cliff. I’m in a 3″ limit state and I can see modifying a Stretch in the same way to take it under the 3″.

Josh: I wrote my reply before yours was posted. Once again, we’re on the same wavelength.

[Allgonquin]

A belt grinder plus a Wicked Edge is your friend. Here are a before and after shot of a friend’s treasured “Old Timer”.

I normally draw the shape of a new tip with the sharpie and play with it a while until I’m satisfied, then use my 6 x 48 belt with a very fine grit belt on slow speed, being careful not to heat the blade more than I can touch. Of course the proportions won’t always be the best with a huge piece of the tip missing, but you do the best you can. Then finish with the WE and voila, good to go.

And I always get permission from the owner before putting on a new tip!

[Gib Curry]

I agree, but there is another option: forego the work on the bevel and simply grind the spine-side of the tip down to where it meets the forward-most point of the remaining edge, following a gentle arc profile. You’d need a belt sander or grinder, but this wouldn’t require any special skill or care in re-establishing the tip and would take a lot less time. The shape will be a little different but the usability will be the same. Of course, you’d lose one or two mm in blade length.

That’s exactly what I was saying to do Tom lol!! But thanks for clarifying… must not have been clear. 😉 And he would not need a belt sander necessarily… He can do that on the 100’s and then progress up through the grits to the 1k. Then he can hit it on one of his strops and you won’t even be able to tell that it was ever not factory.[/quote]

Aha!

Putting together what you both described has helped me think through an issue re-tipping (?) a Kershaw Leek. It’s really almost a preventative rescue, as the tip has just begun to round… and those have such a nice sharp tip.

Saying the same thing in your two different ways and the other comments really helped…. thanks again everyone….

~~~~
For Now,

Gib

Φ

"Everyday edge for the bevel headed"

"Things work out best for those who make the best out of the way things work out."

[tcmeyer]

Leo:

I finally got around to look at the Lansky knife. You’re right, it really is an interesting concept, and I see they have it on Amazon for $16.59. I couldn’t find an equivalent with a lock.

While shopping, I found another interesting folder. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H58UH2Q/ref=pd_luc_t_ttl_rh_sbs_02_01_lh?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I greatly prefer Micarta to G-10. Columbia lists the Razel folders as “discontinued”, but a few sellers on Amazon still have them. Now they have one less. $24.50 + free shipping.

[Leo Barr]

Good job!

[Author]

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