Brand new user questions

[Colin]

Howdy folks, I just got my wicked edge precision and have some questions, as I’m ready to start spending a little disposable income over the next few weeks to get things really dialed in, but that means I’ve got a few questions. Before I go into anything, I have to say that I’m very satisfied with the build quality, fit and finish, and well produced instruction manual. It’s expensive, but I can tell that my money is certainly going towards the product I got.

First, nomenclature. Does the basic “wicked edge precision” $299 model have a reference for the model, like a model number, “gen 1,” “basic”? Are there various iterations of it to date that would make it easier for me to mention here so I don’t confuse anyone with the system I have?

Second, I’m a little obsessive about low angles for most of my knives (always done it by hand on a few basic waterstones. I’ll say straight away that I’m probably -terrible- at it, but I’ve always tried for 26-34deg inclusive) so the 30 minimum of the basic model is tolerable, but I’m definitely not going to be pulling my Asai Hayabusa out of its saya until I can get a 26 degree angle at least. So that leads me to the low angle adapter. It will fit the system I have, correct? How about (for future reference, if I decide I want to get fancier) the gen 3 vise and pro pack 2 upgrade, will all of those work interchangeably, as well as work with the low angle adapter?

Third, base options – I’m assuming that people have mounted theirs to wood bases. has the lower weight of a wood base been a problem for anyone? I’d like to first just mount mine to a piece of 1 inch plywood for simplicity’s sake, as I don’t have a drill press handy to drill a plate of granite.

Fourth, stropping. I’ve never stropped any blade beyond my straight razors, and the three knives I’ve done for practice on my wicked edge (good lord it’s annoying to do without a base yet!) I’ve simply honed on a fine ceramic honing rod. Considering I’m not shooting for a real “mirror” polished edge, just going to do 1000-1600 for most of my knives, which stropping pads would you guys suggest I purchase first after I get the 800-1k and 1200/1600 stones?

Thanks in advance, and sorry for any stupid questions!

[Anonymous]

Welcome to the forum….

I will try to address all of your issues. In you first statement you say you are ready to spend some exposable income. Then you say you are ready to dial things in.

If you view any You tube tutorials on the wicked edge system, you will see that most tutorials do not use what would be considered the Basic system.

The system, whether its basic or advanced, just furthers or enhances the basic system. everyone knows what the 299 system means.

What you have is called the basic system for a reason. It just gets you started. You need to mount the vice on something sturdy, not a piece of plywood. Either mounted to a table rigidly, or with a heavy base. You can get by with the basic arms and rods, but the ball joints are a much better upgrade.

You talk about specific angles. Every stone, lays against the edge differently, so the need for an angle cube is an absolute necessity . Like most of us, we were never really that good with a wet stone, but we all tried. You have knowledge of razor edges and stropping, so you need a set of leather strops, and some stropping pastes.

You talk about the gen III system, but that is a completely defferent set up, that the basic.

When you say dialed in and exposable income to spend, it seems a bit contradictory.

Before you bought the basic system you should have done some research so we could have told you just what to do.

You can add to what you have now, to get you ” dialed in ” as you say but had you bough the correct kit, you could have saved some money.

You need a granite base ( which is already drilled )for the WE vice. you need a low angle adaptor, you need an angle cube, you need a set of basic leather strops, and some .o5 and 1.0 micron stropping paste. You need  the 800/1000 stones,  and the ceramics. Or you could have bought the proPack II system, or for 50 dollars less the advanced Gen III setup.

Not sure if I was helpful… but I do not know what your intentions are with regard to the sharpness of your knives. Personally I could not get by without a hand held microscope to view the actual edge to see microscopic nicks in the edge.

can you sharpen a knife with the basic set up ? Yes… but can you make it wicked sharp with a basic setup? the answer lies within your definition of wicked sharp.

I never knew what wicked sharp could be until I defined my system with the tools necessary to make an edge so sharp, it can peel a single hair three times within that same hair.  I never knew or had any real respect for how sharp a knife edge could be until I bought this system, and Ive been sharpening knives for 55 years of my 70 years of life.

this is the results of my first wicked sharp edge…I now know what wicked sharp means.

Good Luck and ask away…

Bill aka ET

One of your best sources for information would be a call into Kyle Kaplan, at wicked edge… if you need prices, bundles, or general information, specific to your personal needs.

 

 

[Anonymous]

One other thought, in the form of an analogy, IM an automotive engineer:

If all you need is something to get you to the grocery store, then a Honda civic will do. If you want to win a Grand Prix, then you will need a lot more than a Honda civic.

 

[Geocyclist]

Hey Colin,

Welcome to the forum.

1. I am not sure.  I think the basic system is just the basic system.  It would be Gen 1 as Gen 2 came out after it, but I am not aware of Gen 1 as an official name.

2. Yes, the low angle adapter will work on the basic, pro pack II and gen 3.  It is basically a smaller vise that clamps into the main vise.  It sits higher up allowing for lower angles.

3. Wood is fine.  Only 2 concerns I would have based on previous experience.  If you use water stones you will get small drips, but that should be ok on wood.  Second, if you use heavy pressure stropping the granite base can lift up.  So wood could be too light for heavy stropping.  A good granite yard should be willing to drill holes for you at a fair price.

4. Stropping.  If you get just 1 set of strops start with plain leather and 3.5/5 micron paste.  This does a great job.  If you want to get even better than pick up some lower grit paste.  3.5/5 is a good starting point after the ceramics or 1000 diamonds.  With leather make your strop angle 1-2 degrees per side more acute than you the angle you sharpened at.  The leather is soft and conforms to the blade.  Going more acute keeps it from rolling over the edge.

Before you do your good knife definitely get some practice and break your stones in.  The diamond stones need at least 10 sharpenings to get great results.  The first few knives will have rough edges/deep scratches.  Also it takes a few knifes to get the technique down.

 

[Josh]

I would consider a panavise type mount for your base, instead of granite or something. The panavise makes everything more intuitive, at least for me =)

Also, check out the angles I got! This idea of combining everything was taken from Cliff Curry, but it does help to visualize the possibilities!

 

The others look like they have answered your questions well!

[Colin]

Excellent replies everyone, I’ll be taking everything said into consideration (I got an angle cube a while ago, so that part is sorted) and a plywood base is just temporary, I can see why it would be a little light, I have some heavier mdf/hdf lying around that I can do an 18x 18 base out of and clamp it to my table as well. I’ll get a better base from granite once I have some more time in a few weeks (I’m a medic, so my shifts can make my free time a little hectic)

 

Also, evil twin, if it makes sense, I’m starting with the basic system because it was a gift, and it’s easier for me to put money into it than ask for money towards the better system instead when someone wants to buy me something (which can also seem a little rude to the buyer)

From what I read, the ball joint arms make a world of difference. Should I buy that first or a set of finer stones and strops?

 

My first plan for breaking in the stones is next week to do something I saw on chef steps, taking old silverware butter knives and making steak knives out of them. I did my EDC opinel carbone #12 and spyderco kiwi last night out of curiosity (both are solid rescue knives that get used a lot alongside my leatherman raptor in the field) but I’m on duty for the next 72 hours, so I’ll try to get it set up on Sunday.

 

And razoredge, I like your setup a lot. What model panavise base is that? I don’t have any of my old steel cutting tools to make a blank for the base, so I might have to try to fix my ancient steel miter. Not having a drill press for a few years has been such a pain in the ass!

[Anonymous]

You can build off the basic 299. entry level system. You will need a low angle adaptor, and you will need 800/1000  stones, and a set of ceramics. you can buy a base from wicked edge with the hardware and the base will be drilled correctly. You are going to have to clamp or bolt to a table or get a base that weighs 12/15 lbs.  You don’t need the ball joints right now….

[Colin]

Copy that evil twin, thanks. (I’m not going to buy the base when I have blocks of granite and 3/8 plate steel sitting in my garage, I was just curious for short term mounting until the tech college down the street is back in session, I just bribe the shop to do under the table stuff for me because my garage has no space for more floor tools or 220 outlets, I have to unplug my dryer to weld) I’ll make due, though that panavise setup razoredge has is mighty nice looking, I’m leaning pretty strongly towards that

 

That tormek jig is very cool. It’s just the small knife jig, right?

[Anonymous]

I have been able to sharpen each of these knives, including that little one, without the use of the Tormeck  although I Have it.

 

[cliff58]

The pana vise set-up is the bomb!Way more comfortable,you can set the whole thing at any angle you want,thanks Razors Edge your tutorial video made it easy,Colin you should really give it a try.

[Mark76]

Nice work, Bill! I still have some trouble with very small knives (but that’s why I’ve got the Tormek for).

Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

[Geocyclist]

Hey ET, is the knife to the right of the Swiss Army a Buck?  If so what model?

 

[Anonymous]

Geocyclist wrote:

Hey ET, is the knife to the right of the Swiss Army a Buck? If so what model?

That knife is  a Buck 110. Its  55 years old. It was my first real knife when I was 15 years old.

[Geocyclist]

I picked up my first 110 a few weeks ago.  I like it, will probably carry it in pouch rather than in pocket.  I was wondering if it was a 112, same as 110 but 3″ blade and handle also about 3/4″ shorter.  Thought I 112 might work for in pocket carry.

[tcmeyer]

I have a 110 which must be over 40 years old and still in great shape.  It doesn’t get used anymore simply because of its weight.  When you’re built like a football, a little extra weight in you pockets or on your belt can send your trouser quickly to your knees.  LOL.  My EDC is my Delica 4 in ZDP, which feels like a feather in comparison.

I think most outdoor type guys over the age of 35 have probably got a 110 in their collection.  I know I’ve sharpened one for almost every buddy who’s brought their knives around for sharpening.  Every one gets a quick cleanup and polish.  Recently a friend brought his 110 for sharpening and I noticed that the lockback was really hard to operate.  I told him that Buck has a lifetime warranty on ’em and they’d fix it or replace it.  No, too many memories in it.  He didn’t want to take the chance of them replacing it.

Still one of the best $35 folders and still on the market after God-knows-how-many years.

[Author]

Posts