Angle Cube Question
- This topic has 26 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 02/11/2018 at 9:30 am by
.
-
Interesting info. Thank you for the clarification.
So I guess my next question is, once you plot, or know how much the angle is changing on that radius, then what? There’s nothing at all we can do about it with our WE’s, right? Is there a way to use the data to determine the sweet spot for a particular knife? I’m guessing the sweet spot would be the one with the least change in angle?
And, if that’s the case, wouldn’t the sweet spot for any knife be as far toward the radiused tip as possible?
Reason I ask is because I am relatively new to this world, and haven’t figured out how to get my tips quite right yet.
1 user thanked author for this post.
Yes, I find closest to the curve is best. Some people reposition the knife (I dont — too much time & blending challenges). I suppose you could also change the angle for dif. segments. I just live with the sweet spot but also like to know what is going on. The angle cube works but it is single axis (must be plumb). I am going to get a dual axis. Also, the model was done by Anthony Yan some years back and it is not trivial to make one for a specific knife. I wanted to make a model using a simple photo which would then suggest options but that is out of my league.
1 user thanked author for this post.
All this rambling points back to my use of the single axis angle cube to verify what the angle will be. I suppose I should get a dual axis so my eye doesn’t have to be an error source.
Redheads – when we first started carrying the Angle Cube, it was intended to help set the angle directly above the vise, especially for use with the micro-adjustment features we’d just introduced. When I started playing around with the angle along the curved portion of the blade, I figured out that the cube needed to be plumb to work so I just used a square, set on the granite base of my sharpener, to get the cube plumb. Long after and thanks to tcmeyer, I discovered dual axis inclinometers. Hopefully we’ll start carrying those instead of the single axis units someday soon.
-Clay
Square is a great idea. Even better than a level. Thanks for all the info, and discussion. In the end, I wonder how we can use all this to better determine our sweet spots.
What do most people do now? Sharpie? Or does anyone use the drawn arcs on cardboard technique I saw? Any others I should be aware of as a newb?
1 user thanked author for this post.
First there is the decision we make when we take a knife to our WEPS. Are we intending to profile the edge to a new bevel angle and shape of our choice and liking? Or, are we attempting to sharpen the blade to as close to the factory angle as the limits of our WEPS will support?
If we are attempting to match the factory bevel we often employ a “sharpie” to verify we have found the proper clamping position; the sweet spot. In reality and practicality, each knife we clamp in WE, once we make the decision that this clamping position is as close a working “sweet spot” as I’ll get and decide to go ahead on the sharpening process, using what ever method you prefer to employ; “sharpie” method and dual axis angle cube for me (DXL360).
Once you start to sharpen the knife there is always some small amount of profiling that will occur to the blade while getting your bevels established and creating your apex. If you’ve made a good choice on the sweet spot it’ll only be maybe a couple of spots usually, as Redheads illustrated, at the very heel and very tip. Sometimes the tip and/or heel are right on the money, depending on the shape of the knife, with your “sweet spot” clamping position and the minor prolfiling is evident elsewhere along the bevel, reminding you the knife is hand forged and not perfect. I’m OK to accept and go with these small changes.
I have come to learn after sharpening many knives of all sizes and shapes, for myself and others, some quite high end and expensive, that these changes are generally unnoticeable and have no negative affect to the cutting ability of the knife. After all the knife cuts better after the sharpening. The minor profiling happens only the first time and each subsequent sharpening or touch-up, as you would, if you recorded the original clamping position in your “Sharpening Log” with good enough detail to repeat this position precisely, there will be no further profiling. Strictly dead-on the bevel contact every where along the entire bevel heel to tip. If you see, (I use a digital USP microscope), any place your not in perfect alignment along the bevel, then a reexamination of your clamping position is needed and usually I determine, I was, indeed, off a smidgen. After a minor adjustment, all is well in WEPS world.
In agreement with Reheads, yes, the first clamping and sharpening of your knife is the most important and does require the most degree of care and will affect the subsequent clamping of the knife for all time. Take your time and use your aids to get it right. Record the position well so you can repeat it.
In the case with a full profiling of the blade, the same is true. The knife clamping position when recorded in your sharpening log and used correctly will allow a dead-on the bevel touch-up. The only difference is, in the beginning, you removed more metal from more areas, reestablishing the entire bevel angle, to get to this sharp edge.
Marc
(MarcH's Rack-Its)Well said, MarcH
2 users thanked author for this post.
Phillyjudge, I don’t really know/follow what your saying. I’m not sure how or where you got that idea.
I place my digital angle cube flat against the stone, (ie top side) and rest the stone I’ll be using, (ie, the opposite side down) against the clamped knife’s bevel in a position that is central to the vice and relatively flat and parallel to the jaws top. If the stone im using is magnetic the cube will attach magnetically and stay in place. If it’s a non-magnetic medium I hold the cube in place to maintain the position. I do not use any type of plumb or squaring device. I do start with a zeroed digital angle cube. Here is a picture of me setting the angle guide rods to 19.00 dps.
The most important aspect, for me, is that you do this angle measurement, in the same way, at the same place, (on the stone and relative to the knife), consistently every time, on both sides, stone after stone during the entire progression of the sharpening. It is not as important the exact preciseness of that angle but the consistency that this angle is the same throughout your sharpening process.
I don’t care if a knife I’m applying an angle cube measured 15 degree per side bevel is in reality, 15.03 dps or 14.9 dps. as long as this is the angle along the entire bevel and on both sides of the knife.
Marc
(MarcH's Rack-Its)
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.