WayneReimer hit rule #1… make sure the owner knows what’s going on… what the knife will look like when you’re done, and that you have that understanding before you start. He’s also right in looking at other options… consider sharpening it out over time… if you can blend it a bit, and it still serves its purpose. This is a very good point!
The WE is certainly capable of making this repair… especially if you have the 50/80g stones. I think some would be surprised at the amount of steel you can remove. The control also means that each stroke does exactly what you want it to.
Biggest rule I learned is that damage repair is not sharpening. Don’t try to sharpen the damage out. (I’m not talking minor damage, but something that really needs work).
Set the WE at the highest angle you can… clear out to the edge of the bar. Work the area around the damage to bring everything back in line. (Make sure the arm swings freely across the entire area you’re working).
Go slow at first… make sure you’re not creating any new problems… especiially near the heel, and tip, or where the tanto transitions. Once you feel comfortable you can pick up the pace… but check your work often.
If you’re using the really coarse stones… this will really abrade the edge… so when you get close to where you want it… take a fine stone at 90 deg. to the edge (freehand obviously), and smooth it out… then you can start sharpening at the angle you want. Again, avoid the damaged area until the bevels are close to lining up… then sharpen as normal.
Kind of a brief summary… let me know if something’s not clear or I need to expand on it.
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