1200/1600 and microfine 1.4/ 0.6 progression
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- This topic has 7 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 10/15/2018 at 8:24 am by Marc H.
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10/14/2018 at 3:30 pm #47873
Forgive me if this is been discussed already but I want to know if the microfine (1.4/.06) go in between the 1200/1600 stones?
10/14/2018 at 3:43 pm #47875The 1.4 / 0.6 are more fine than the 1200 / 1600 ceramics. The 1.4 / 0.6 would usually be used after the 1200 / 1600. Check out this article
Sharpening Grit Progression for All Wicked Edge Abrasives- This reply was modified 6 years, 1 month ago by Organic.
10/14/2018 at 3:44 pm #47877They sort of overlap. The intuitive way, using grit progression charts and the practical way using visual observation of the results doesn’t coincide. There have been many posts going back several years that suggest the best way to commingle these ceramics to achieve the best succession results. Honestly I can’t remember what that was. Recently a new WE user posted what he found to be his ideal order. It was in the last month or two. Also I don’t remember who it was. If I come across it, I’ll post it.
Marc
(MarcH's Rack-Its)- This reply was modified 6 years, 1 month ago by Marc H.
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10/14/2018 at 4:15 pm #47879Here’s what one of our new users determined he liked best: https://knife.wickededgeusa.com/forums/topic/i-think-i-am-doing-something-wrong/#post-47470.
I want to add to this discussion that the ceramic stones have a longer break-in period then the diamond stones, before you’ll get optimal results using them. Also, you need to decide what results you’re seeking. A polished bevel or a super sharp edge. Some users may have applied an incredibly sharp edge with the ceramic stones but consider it less than successful because they were seeking a shiny mirror polished bevel. They failed to recognize how sharp their edge had become because they weren’t looking for that.
Marc
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10/14/2018 at 4:43 pm #47882Here is how a deceased member and former regular contributor of our forum found it was best for him to use the ceramics:
“My usual progression starting from zero is: diamond stones (100-1000) – coarse micro-fine ceramics (“1.4”) – 1200 ceramics – 1600 ceramics – fine micro-fine ceramics (“0.6”)”.
Hope this helps, Mark76
Here are two different WE users, in these last two posts, with two different takes on what progression they like best. Obviously there is a subjective aspect to sharpening.
Marc
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10/14/2018 at 10:50 pm #47884Here is how a deceased member and former regular contributor of our forum found it was best for him to use the ceramics: “My usual progression starting from zero is: diamond stones (100-1000) – coarse micro-fine ceramics (“1.4”) – 1200 ceramics – 1600 ceramics – fine micro-fine ceramics (“0.6”)”. Hope this helps, Mark76 Here are two different WE users, in these last two posts, with two different takes on what progression they like best. Obviously there is a subjective aspect to sharpening.
Thanks very much for this link! A lot of great info there! A lot to take in but I also think that 1.4 to 1200/1600 to .06 is the way to go. I just got done with a custom bowie and did notice a progression between the 1600 to the .06um. I am more interested in a treetop level of sharpness but am still unable to get there.
I haven’t used the sharpener in a couple of months and decided to take it apart and clean it. I also noticed an almost 1 degree difference from holding the paddles, definitely need to get the technique down for that perfect edge geometry (which I assume is my last step) to attain ultimate sharpness.
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10/14/2018 at 11:23 pm #4788610/15/2018 at 8:24 am #47888Just understand that each grit medium: diamond stones, ceramic stones, whetstones, lapping films, strops, etc, have their own associated scratch patterns. Even if you use two different mediums both label and rated with the same size diamond grit particles, the visualized scratch pattern may appear totally different. You’ll need some sort of lighted magnified visual aid to help you see the knife edge. I prefer to use a USB Microscope. Others use a lighted jewelers loupe.
Each substrate, the base material that the grit particles are mounted on and the differences in manufacturing processes will give the individual scratch patterns different depths, widths, volume and spacing. When you jump back and forth between mediums and substrates besides varying the grit particle size it can be very difficult to obliterate the previous scratch patterns layed down because of the visual differences.
This is why many of us are more methodical in our choice of grit progressions following from one medium to the next and then to a third one as we attempt to decrease our particle sizes down each step along the progression. When I, and many other users, switch from one grit medium to another, for instance diamond stones to diamond lapping films, we often take a step back to a lower grit or a step sideways to an equal grit size when making the medium change. This overlap helps with the transition of the different characteristic scratch patterns, between mediums.
For me strops are always the last step in my sharpening / polishing progression.
Marc
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