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  • #33972
    NH2JR
    Participant
    • Topics: 2
    • Replies: 1

    Hello I am still new at this and I have read all over the forum looking for ideas on sharpening and every once in awhile I run into a problem where no matter how I set a knife in the vice the marker on the tip will never go away.

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    #33975
    cbwx34
    Participant
    • Topics: 57
    • Replies: 1505

    In this case, having the blade tipped up might be part of the problem… try level or tipping it down a bit.  Level should work, and be easy to repeat.

    Also, many knives come with tips ground at a little higher angle, especially from the factory.  As the blade curves toward the tip, it often goes into thicker metal, so the angle is adjusted so the bevel appears even.  So it might take a little extra work in that area.

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    #33978
    Mark76
    Participant
    • Topics: 179
    • Replies: 2760

    This info might also help you:

    Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

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    #33980
    tcmeyer
    Participant
    • Topics: 38
    • Replies: 2098

    cbwx34 pretty much nailed the points I would have suggested, but it’s also important to keep in mind that when you have a clipped point type of profile and mounted horizontally, the distance from the vise to the tip can radically change the angle.  That said, I think the position shown in your photos is actually quite good if your intent is to achieve a uniform bevel angle.

    I will expand a bit on one of cbwx34’s points…  The thickness of the blade at the bevel shoulder is almost always greater at the tip.  To avoid weakening the tip, makers will chose to keep more “meat” in the spine near the tip.  If the spine at the tip were as slender as the blade is thin at the bevel near the heel, the tip would almost certainly have a short life expectancy.  Looking down on the tip, you’ll see the included angle and how the bevels are wider because of this.  It’s this relationship which is requiring the removal of so much steel near the tip.

    If you would rather duplicate the original bevels, consider moving the blade to a horizontal position.  Moving the blade tip closer to or farther from the vise as you use the Sharpie method will let you match the bevel more closely.

     

     

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    #34004
    dulledge
    Participant
    • Topics: 12
    • Replies: 183

    I would sharpen separately main edge and tip edge. Reclamp for the tip and increase angle.

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    #34046
    cbwx34
    Participant
    • Topics: 57
    • Replies: 1505

    I would sharpen separately main edge and tip edge. Reclamp for the tip and increase angle.

    I wouldn’t recommend this, unless there’s a specific reason, for example a very long blade or tanto blade. The blade in this post shouldn’t be an issue setting up and sharpening as one unit.

    Reclamping during sharpening adds issues you really don’t need to deal with, like blending the edge, easily setting up for touchups or resharpening, adding microbevels, etc. Can be done, but really don’t see a need in this case.

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