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What am I doing wrong?

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  • #24675
    Mark
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 0

    Greetings. I’ve been lurking on this forum for awhile, but haven’t done any posting. But I have a problem getting my knives sharp with my WE unit.

    Here is the issue: The problem is that the guide rods are at different angles to the knife, even though the guide settings on each side are identical. The result is uneven bevels, and knives that are not sharp. I’ve had my WE unit for a couple years, but, at times, the results have been less than satisfactory. Not sure what I’m doing wrong.

    For example, for my fishing fillet knives I set the rods at 22 degrees on both sides. When I’m done, the bevel on the left side (with the knife in the vice) is very narrow and smooth. However, the bevel on the right side is much wider, and is rough because the burr has not been eliminated. And the knife is not nearly as sharp as it should be. This tells me the stones are not hitting the knife at the same angle, so I’m not eliminating the burr. But I’m not sure why since the settings are identical (22 degrees). As anyone with a WE knows, setting the correct angle is the critical step to getting a sharp knife.

    Last month, I was at the Pacific Northwest Sportsman’s Show (Portland, OR). I talked with Kyle at the WE Booth. I brought one of my fillet knives to him as an example of the problem. After examining the knife, he quickly came to the same conclusion: the stones are not hitting the knife at the same angle. He put my fillet knife in his WE unit, and within a few minutes it was razor sharp. It was a lot sharper than I can get with my WE unit. I’m not sure if the problem is my unit, my sharpening technique, or how I mounted it (granite base).

    So I measured the distance from the base of the vice to the end of the settings bar. It was identical on both sides of the vice. So I eliminated that as the problem. I tried setting the guide rods at differing angles, with some success. For my fishing knives I set the left side at 22 degrees and the right side at 24 degrees. That seems to help somewhat, but I’m just guessing. Sometimes I guess wrong, and the knife comes out duller than when I started (because the burr is still present) even after going through 100/200, 400/600, 800/1000, two ceramic stones, and two leather strops.

    This doesn’t seem to be as much of a problem with my Wusthof kitchen knives. It’s still a problem, just not as bad. However, these knives are considerably wider. My 8-inch cook’s knife is about three inches wide at the bolster, whereas the fillet knives are about an inch or so at the handle. Not sure why a wider knife would be different, but it seems to be.

    Any suggestions on how to correct the problem of the guide rods being at different angles even though the settings are the same? I’m hoping someone else has had this issue, and it’s been successfully resolved…….

    #24677
    Mikedoh
    Moderator
    • Topics: 38
    • Replies: 571

    Use an angle cube. The angle markings on the guide bar are approximations, since only one side of the vise moves, angles will be different from one side from the other. The markings were set up for a certain spine thickness and height of blade.

    #24681
    tcmeyer
    Participant
    • Topics: 38
    • Replies: 2098

    The symptoms you describe suggest that you are not reaching the apex with the lower grits. If not, changing to the higher grits is a waste of time and incredibly frustrating. As Mike says, get an AngleCube. Shop around on the internet and you can find them for less than $25 plus shipping. Grizzly is at $22 right now. A couple of months ago they were at $13.

    An AngleCube will confirm to you that your stones will reach the apex. For instance, if you’ve formed the bevel with 600 grit stones and then find that your 800-grit stones sit at 0.2 degrees lower, they likely never reach the apex.

    I think that more than an AngleCube, you need a good loupe. You need to know that you’ve reached the apex for the entire length of the blade and removed all traces of defects before proceeding to the next grit. Here’s pretty good one:

    Available at http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CL1POW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    If/when you can afford it, consider a USB microscope. I think it’s the cat’s ass for solving your problem. There’s no substitute for being able to see what you are doing

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    #24691
    Gib Curry
    Participant
    • Topics: 18
    • Replies: 240

    Greetings. I’ve been lurking on this forum for awhile, but haven’t done any posting. But I have a problem getting my knives sharp with my WE unit.

    Here is the issue:

    Welcome…. former lurker!

    I read this thread and haven’t seen the word patience used yet.

    I’ve got a knife in my vise right now that’s been there a week. I’m still working on one little piece right at the tip of a tanto blade. Here’s where the patience comes in… Each time I stop and look and see progress but I haven’t gotten to that last little millimeter of funny looking scratch pattern. If I don’t get that point right, the rest of the blade will not be as sharp as I want it.

    So, a word for patience.

    The other comments are spot on… got to be able to see down at that near microscopic level to make sure you’ve gotten to the edge of the edge of the edge on each side.

    The angle cube gives you the “true” reading, then you can use the WE to hold that angle and deliver a wicked edge.

    As mentioned, the detents and angle markings are for reference. Often, the two sides will have different angles according to the WE. But, they are identical in fact…. as you found out in your experimentation to get the bevels equal width — one side reads 22 and the other side reads 24.

    Hope you have had some successes with the Wicked Edge?

    ~~~~
    For Now,

    Gib

    Φ

    "Everyday edge for the bevel headed"

    "Things work out best for those who make the best out of the way things work out."

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