With that much grinding on that much of the blade as defined by the scribe lines… Having over-heated and ruined edges before, I would be nervous about heat while grinding…
I’ve got a Ken Onion WorkSharp that would be up to the task (perhaps not on an industrial scale but for onesies or twosies) but, I would remain concerned about the blade’s temper…
Could some of you more experienced sharpeners share a few words on heat, please? How to avoid ruining temper?
[quote quote=“GibCurry” post=21958]With that much grinding on that much of the blade as defined by the scribe lines… Having over-heated and ruined edges before, I would be nervous about heat while grinding…
I’ve got a Ken Onion WorkSharp that would be up to the task (perhaps not on an industrial scale but for onesies or twosies) but, I would remain concerned about the blade’s temper…
Could some of you more experienced sharpeners share a few words on heat, please? How to avoid ruining temper?[/quote]
Well I have, within the past 4 months, converted my belt sander to be water cooled with Kool Mist units, and I also run it on low speed alway, so it never really gets hot at all. But if I didn’t have this set up my best advise is to use a coarse grit belt (36 grit) and make sure it is sharp and new. This will ensure that it cuts the coolest and most efficiently.
Ha! Yeah, the owner of these knives was on break and hanging out behind his other place of employment, then, out of boredom, he started hacking at a stump… Blows my mind.
Man people do the dumbest stuff when they’re bored haha. There should be a separate topic that we can post people’s YouTube videos to.
Here’s a quick video update if anyone’s interested.
Thanks!
Broken Tip Repair/Blade Thinning/Wicked Exdge: http://youtu.be/GEshIv-q7rs
You did a fine job on that knife. The tip looks factory and the sides are nicely finished. 
I look forward to seeing the other one. I expect it will take a lot of work without power tools to get it thin again, after reprofiling.
started hacking at a stump hahaha. I think it came out really nice.
yeah it did buddy! great work!
little tip: if you want a cheap decent belt sander get a 1x30 from harbor freight for ~$50 and later when you can afford it a kool mist unit (just throw some rags under it, doesn’t make that much of a mess) and you will have a water cooled belt sander! 
[quote quote=“KnifeKnerdAtX” post=22063]Here’s a quick video update if anyone’s interested.
Thanks![/quote]
Nice work… good to see you…
[quote quote=“razoredgeknives” post=22068]yeah it did buddy! great work!
little tip: if you want a cheap decent belt sander get a 1x30 from harbor freight for ~$50 and later when you can afford it a kool mist unit (just throw some rags under it, doesn’t make that much of a mess) and you will have a water cooled belt sander! :D[/quote]
Ah, thanks man! Hearing such praise from you guys truly gives me motivation to keep at it.
I’ve been working on the chip for HOURS!.. Now… off to Harbor Freight to see what’s up :pinch:
Proper job all looks good.
I’m SUPER glad to hear you say that, Leo.
Thank you!
It took quite a bit of time and effort, but I’m glad to say the chip in my coworker’s Miyabi 6000 MCT has been removed. The last inch or so towards the heel needs some attention before moving forward. Other than that, I think I’m on the home stretch in terms of reprofiling.
It obviously still needs to be drastically thinned out before it comes anywhere close to having the cutting ability it had prior to the chip.
Anyway. Just wanted to update you guys. Please drop some of your much appreciated knowledge on me in the meantime!
~Steven
How long did it take you, and what was your method or process of removing the chip?
looks good Steven! just make sure that you put it on a nice flat surface to make sure the blade makes full contact with the cutting board from tip to heel.
Thanks Josh!
Yeah, I’ve definitely been doing that… Heck, I’ve probably done it a dozen or so times now and I’ll probably do it again a dozen more! :blink: A wavy edge wouldn’t be cool… At all!!!
outstanding!!
Nice job!
I just sharpened that same knife for a chef!
Thanks Josh!
Yeah, I’ve definitely been doing that… Heck, I’ve probably done it a dozen or so times now and I’ll probably do it again a dozen more! :blink: A wavy edge wouldn’t be cool… At all!!![/quote]
Will just add .. put a bright light behind it … you’d be surprised what the eye misses.
I’ve been using those clamp on leds from Lowes for a lot of stations.
These things:
led light
clamp em on WEPS, Wheels, Alongside belts, Buffers … angle it right and you easily see the burr on anything you’re working on.
I see from the picture that the blade edge appears to not be quite a perfect arc if you are doing this on the WE you need to keep the stones moving along the blade since they are narrow Gyutous do not have as much belly as a western chefs knife since they do less rocking cuts but there needs to be a little curve from a point about one third away from the heel to the tip and back from that point to the heel but only vert slight unlike a chefs knife but the profile can be easily checked on a cutting board either by rocking from heel to tip or tip to heel the blade should stay in contact with the board throughout the rocking movement the illusion in your picture is the heel third it looks almost as if you could loose at least a couple of mm from the heel termination but it maybe glare & shadow that are not helping in the photo.
I have to say that blade curves are much easier sorted on bench stones since most of the length of the blade is in contact at all times.
When I was new to sharpening with my EP I went through a brief period of either making bad blade curves with hollows or simply making them too flat which is like removing the suspension from a car when using a knife on a board.
The danger area for any knife is just forward of the heel often people who use steels on knives create large hollows here this hollow renders the knife almost unusable on a board so even when using the WE this is the area in general that needs the least metal removal I found for me on the WE it was safest to start at the tip & work back but most knives except perhaps for ham slicers the heel tip should be slightly higher .
If in doubt try to find the knife or a similar one on the net as a reference.
Thanks Josh!
Yeah, I’ve definitely been doing that… Heck, I’ve probably done it a dozen or so times now and I’ll probably do it again a dozen more! :blink: A wavy edge wouldn’t be cool… At all!!![/quote]
Will just add .. put a bright light behind it … you’d be surprised what the eye misses.
I’ve been using those clamp on leds from Lowes for a lot of stations.
These things:
led light
clamp em on WEPS, Wheels, Alongside belts, Buffers … angle it right and you easily see the burr on anything you’re working on.[/quote]
Forgot to mention I HAVE been using a light each time. I was in the car with a few people on the way to a wedding so I got distracted while I was trying to respond… But, yes, light is a powerful ally in the sharpening world.