I have a cheapie squarish, thin bladed, chisel grind, cleaver looking knife of the tv wonder knife variety.
Am mulling over what to get in a similar style, but of a better quality. Say less than $100, preferably much less.
There is a Mac knife. 6.5 inch Japanese style vegetable cleaver for ~ $85. I’d rather spend less.
Some pics of the Mac and the cheapie
Macs are certainly great knives the other picture is more of a chinese cleaver they vary from less than 10€ from the chinese shops to 500€ for a Japanese one the mac is far from a chinese cleaver the big blade is great for scooping up from the board.~The mac is more of a Nakira .
Any recommendations on the Chinese cleaver style?
I have a CCK 1303 that I like pretty well.
+1 See my avatar :cheer:
I just looked at that on CKTG that a really handsome knife listed at 88€
At $44, it will shortly be ordered. What sort of oil / maintenance do you use to keep rust at bay. I remember LeoBarr mentioning some sort of safe oil a bit ago, but don’t recall its name.
Thanks for the replys guys
This is traditional oil used for samurais
Ballistol is a bit cheaper and edible (well, not toxic) mineral oil as well. But camelia oil might smell better (does it Leo? never seen it).
Had Ballistol out today to wipe down an air rifle.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camellia_oleifera
It has many uses from cooking beauty & skin care to protecting blades also known as It is commonly known as the Oil-seed Camellia or Tea Oil Camellia it may be possible to buy in supermarkets as Tea Oil Camellia . It has fantastic properties I cannot say I have noticed a smell from it maybe in large quantities it has or when used for cooking.
Recently got a Moritaka Nakiri in Aogami Super
Really loving this knife.
It passes through vegetables like they aren’t even there.
Ken
If I did not have this Honyaki Nakira I would certainly consider your Aogami Super
Sharpened up to 16k Shapton Glass ceramics
[quote quote=“LeoBarr” post=15789]
If I did not have this Honyaki Nakira I would certainly consider your Aogami Super
Sharpened up to 16k Shapton Glass ceramics[/quote]
Nice!
Would love to try the Shaptons at some point. Until then this one will see my Naniwas -> 12K so it’s all good.
Ken
Strange, could not find any reference to the Chinese chef’s knife in the knife data base. I wonder what a good angle and finish would be for it 
:woohoo:
Please be advised. The preceding was a question cloaked in the guise of a smart a** comment. No feelings were meant to be hurt.
Smart a$$ is perfectly acceptable (even appreciated )
In answer, straight up, it will depend on the steel. With this Nakiri and given my experience with Aogami Super, it can go very, VERY thin. Thinner than WEPS can handle, even with the low angle attachment. 10° inclusive? Maybe lower? And polish as high as you can go. It’s a push cut knife.
Ken
I like both Choseras & Shaptons they are both very hard stones !
The blade is a gentle convex thinning steepening a little at the edge as you say these blades are thinned I spent about 4 hours thinning my Honyaki much as I like the WE this is not the type of knife that is suited to it the steel on my Honyaki is forged grade 1 blue steel and it is the sharpest knife I have in the kitchen probable next sharpest is a Hap 40 Santoku again a very thin blade which has a convex edge I put on it.
Opinions on angles for the cck 1303 . Listed as “high carbon”.
I have Choseras to 10k, so I should be good finish wise.
I think if it is not going to be used on hard squashes and mainly push cutting you can probable go quite low 15Ëšon the micro bevel . Ideally if it needs thinning it should be a convex thinning. The edge can be a bevel edge since if it is thinned enough or perhaps already thin enough it will probable only need Choseras possible if it is good on the edge only 10k since the bevel should be a micro bevel so if you can get to the edge with 10k just use that - the less you take off the edge the thinner it will stay and the sharper it will be.
I think that you will not need to thin it for a while so just aim at a micro bevel since you are sharpening it on the WE just try to remove the absolute minimum of steel.
I would say the thinning angle will be less than 10Ëš and then even if I were doing it freehand I then increase the angle at the edge probable by about +5Ëšwhich you could do in increments on the WE to get a convex edge but the edge bevel should be so small it really does not matter if it is a convex bevel or not.
Leo has got it right. I thinned mine down to approximately 9.8 degrees per side. At that angle it was marvelously sharp but didn’t hold up well. I added a 13 degree (per side) micro-bevel and it’s done great. I wrote about it on my blog, here: http://sharpeningtechniques.blogspot.com/search?q=cck
