So far I always place the blade it the vice so that the flat part is parallel to the base. To find the sweet spot I move the blade forwards or backwards, keeping the flat part parallel. A lot of my knives have a small area of the spine at the heel that is square but then quickly tapers off. So if I need to slide the blade back in the vice to get the sweet spot I often run out of “square spine” area.
I have read about others who “tip” the blade down? (or up?) to achieve the sweet spot.
How do you do this? Any tips other than using the sharpie to check for the sweet spot.
Is there a formula? If I have the edge parallel and want to slide it back 1/2 " more, then instead how many degrees would I tip it down?
(Hey Mods: we need a section for setting the blade in the vice?)
Part way down the linked page, is a way to angle the blade by putting tape on a stone and marking where the edge is in the clamped area, then line up the knife tip to the mark on the tape by tilting the knife.
That raises another question. When you tilt the blade down how to you get it back in the vice exactly the same way next time? That is the easy part of mounting parallel is I can record the setting on the alignment guide (ruler) and put it back the same way.
With the blade tilted how to measure a. how far forward/backward it is and b. how much angle it is tilted?
When you use the tape to you get it perfect? I.e. the tip and the main flat section both touch the edge of the tape? Reason I ask is do the same tape trick with mounting parallel, but the tip never quit makes it to the tape. The end result is normally a pretty even bevel though.
Curtis had a very good idea about this a while back that we’re working on: a transparent ruler that the depth key can plug into. This ruler would extend upwards, allowing you to align the edge of the blade with various vertical marks such that any tilt would be recordable and repeatable. No time frame yet on development, but I’ll keep everyone posted as we progress.
I haven’t used tape in that manner, but I’d guess I’d settle for close to the line. I use the sharpie. I’ll compromise some inorder to clamp on a flat portion of the blade.
I would hazard a guess, that if you used the tape-to-stone trick each time, you would end up in ~the same position each time.
[quote quote=“Geocyclist” post=17786]Thanks Mike. I remember seeing this now.
That raises another question. When you tilt the blade down how to you get it back in the vice exactly the same way next time? That is the easy part of mounting parallel is I can record the setting on the alignment guide (ruler) and put it back the same way.
With the blade tilted how to measure a. how far forward/backward it is and b. how much angle it is tilted?
When you use the tape to you get it perfect? I.e. the tip and the main flat section both touch the edge of the tape? Reason I ask is do the same tape trick with mounting parallel, but the tip never quit makes it to the tape. The end result is normally a pretty even bevel though.[/quote]
here is a solution from a while ago put up by Larry at SW Florida Holster that I really like for recording the tilt when you tip the knife so it isn’t resting of both pins - or don’t use the depth key at all. Use a drafting triangle in combo wiht the alignment guide. Triangle give you height and the alignment guide lets you record how far away from the vise you are measuring. I use this a lot on dagger style blades where I don’t use the depth key. It can work for placing the knife flat (horizontal) or tipping. I record the tip height with distance forward and the blade height at the handle just as a double check to be sure I get it tipped the same amount and if it is horizontal I measure tip height and the blade height at the vise to get the same depth into the vise.
Something like this might work. I long straight edge that mounts in the depth gage holes, with 1 or 2 legs that move to locate the tip. May or may not need the protractor part.
While we are on the subject if you ever re-do the alignment gage add more increments, i.e. quarter and eight inch marks. I have drawn in these myself.
I have found that if I am using an angle cube and know how to make the knife edge perpendicular to my edge then I don’t really need to record the height of my tip. It is pretty simple to repeat it and the sharpie trick verifies this.
That’s a great idea! Where would we be without Curtis? B)
I use Josh’s idea too. But I try to minimize overall angle change, not just at the tip. That usually involves getting the angle right somewhere in between the tip and the straight part of the blade.
I have been messing with the tilted blade from day one trying to eliminate (or minimize) the wide sharpening grind near the tip. I think I read a really good post somewhere about fitting the curvature of the blade to the arc of the arms; that’s my application of theory in a nut shell.
I usually try to find the middle of the curved area and center it over the vise. On a fairly curvy blade like an Emerson Commander, I’ve sharpened the front half at a different angle than the back, but the transition area needs to be feathered in (not recommended if you’re going for a mirror finish).
Anyway, here are a couple of examples, and lot more pics in my photobucket link in my profile.
That’s a very nice batch of blades you have there. I’m interested in that last one, which seems to have been ground very elegantly to a very thin edge. What is it? Does the photo show it before or after you’ve sharpened it? Can you share that sort of info?
And are these knives yours? Customers’? Friends’? A mix?
For those that are interested, I suppose I should put this video here too… here is a quick easy way to figure out how to tilt your blade in the vise at the right angle
That’s a very nice batch of blades you have there. I’m interested in that last one, which seems to have been ground very elegantly to a very thin edge. What is it? Does the photo show it before or after you’ve sharpened it? Can you share that sort of info?
And are these knives yours? Customers’? Friends’? A mix?[/quote]
I only do sharpening as a hobby, so either my knives or friends knives. Look in my photobucket album, I have a lot more pics; for the post above I only grabbed the pics with the side view clamped to illustrate the point.
[quote quote=“Geocyclist” post=18010]Hey Black Sheep,
Thanks for the excellent photos. :woohoo:
On many I see crosses drawn in pencil. What are you dong here? How do you position the cross on the blade and then in the vice?
Once you figure it out the first time how do you measure/record to be able to put it back the same way next time?[/quote]
I was trying to come up with a system to replicate the clamp position. In general I’m trying to find the sweet spot, and by marking the blade then taking a picture, I can attempt to clamp it in the same place. However, most times I just guess-timate the location and sharpen it.
My general sharpening philosophy is that I don’t try to make the sharpening perfect, since every little bit of metal is blade life. Which is also why I don’t describe to the super polished edge finishes.
