A great and cheap solution that I already have the pieces to since I made up my axe jig and took your advice for that setup. I will say that this cheap setup will work with a couple of tweaks to keep it from moving around, but good and simple.
I hate to see this but if we keep up making our own gadgets like this maybe Clay will speed up his gizmo line. But I hope someone will come up with a good serration sharpener so we don’t have to wait another 6 months.
Curtis.
Outstanding! That is really using some ingenuity. Do you think you could do a convex edge that way? Like we do for the knives?
Thanks, Eamon
Hate to say it but I purchased theTwice as Sharp system to do scissors with. I tried the WE setup but did not like how long it was taking me to do and that the scissors tended to flex when sharpening.
Now the think I love to say is that by having the machine it payed for 2/3 of it is purchase price the first week I had it. Yes I made $200 the first week doing scissors at the farmers market and sharpening for ladies at work. So hopefully it will be paid off by the end of next week. I did charge $5 for the basic sharpenings but I charged a premium to clean up and polish the blades then paint the handles. So in my opinion the TAS is worth the price. Now I need some more days off from work to find some more scissor business. With this I am starting to really confided a mobile sharpening van or old ambulance to work out of.
[quote quote=“cbwx34” post=13523]Nice work Dan. :woohoo:
I was playing around with ideas to sharpen scissors and took my old angle arm (that I have mounted to a piece of aluminum), and came up with this…clamped it 90 deg. to the main bar, and matched the angle using a Sharpie. Got 'em sharp! 
(My first scissors on the WE!)[/quote]
That’s a pretty clever idea for scissor sharpening Curtis, thanks for sharing / posting that.
:unsure: what grit are y’all starting with on the scissors ( using the WEPS ) if if your push a burr, how are you removing that from the back / flat side of the scissor blade ? ( do you take them apart and lapp the flat side on some higher grit sandpaper adhered to a known flat surface like a piece of float glass, or 12 x 12 tile , granite, etc . ?
I start with a fine stone usually the 600g or 800g diamond and just use that to sharpen. If there’s a lot of damage, I might go back a step, but usually not necessary. Raise as little burr as possible. Usually, if you match the bevel, it doesn’t take much to sharpen them.
To deburr, just spread the edges enough so they can’t touch, close the scissors, then push the edges together and open them. Do this a couple of times. The goal being you don’t want any burr to end up between the blades. After this, I’ll usually make a cut or two on a shop towel. I was taught not to touch the inside unless absolutely necessary.
This is for the normal scissors you run across… no idea about hair shears. (Well, I have an idea, but having never done them, don’t know for sure.) :side:
You can remove the burr just by putting the flat back onto the finishing stone and pull the flat along the stone with the edge trailing - a little like honing(or sharpening a Yanagi) two or thee swipes across should remove the burr. Once you have both blades de-burred close the blades whilst pushing the tips outwards so there is minimum contact then squeeze the blades together as you open them repeat the process 2/3 times before you close the scissors in a normal manner.
The way I was trained on the TAS was this… sharpen both blades to a burr, but don’t touch the other side. Pull the blades apart as you close the scissors, then press them together as you open it. Do this 3-5 times to make sure your burr is straightened out. Then the next step is actually (on the TAS anyway) to increase your grit (i.e. next step up in higher polish) and you hone one of the blades again. At this point you actually close the scissors without pulling the blades apart so that way it actually “shears” the burr off of the one edge, and then do the same to the other blade. Hope this helps on the WEPS =)