Anyone have a link to soem scissor sharpening tips that would work with a PP2?
I’ve got a set I want to play with. It’s a Mundial set of tailor shears.
The thumb piece (top) looks to be a 30 degree bevel with ground in perpendicular grooves to help catch cloth. Seems simple enough except for the hollow grind on the backside.
The finger piece (bottom) looks to be the problem as by eye it looks like about a 70 ish degree bevel.
So do you do those by hand?
Also for the hollow grind, do you just do a few fine swipes to remove the burr?
I have to assume this has been asked somewhere, I just can’t find it…plus I put it here because it wasn’t obvious what topic this fit under.
I ended up free handing my scissors since both sides were over 35 degrees and thus not possible to do in the WEPS. Next time they need sharpening I’m considering reprofiling them to fit in the WEPS and see how that holds up.
I’d be interested in any thoughts or experiences on scissor sharpening as well.
[quote quote=“FredHermann” post=12821]Nothing?
I figured someone would scream “don’t do it!”
Or…point me at 35 links of data…
Not finding what I’m looking for on the obvious searched sites.[/quote]
Lets ask the Master?
Clay can you provide us with any of your personal experience? I thought I heard your were coming out with a attachment? Is there a way you have found that would help us in the mean time?
Thank you sir!
Eamon
Scissors are anywhere between 50-80Ëš(often each blade is a different angle[one may be serrated so leave it alone] and often the angle changes along the blade if you do manage to rig them up on the WE then use the dominant angle and also use a sharpie)I would not lower the angle what you may be able to do is stick a wedge or two behind the blade since you may well be able to drop the beveled side down enough so the higher settings on the WE will reach the bevel although you will need long vice bolts to achieve this I await by WE so I cannot exactly say if it will work.
I have an Edge Pro and there is a special scissor attachment although if they are large scissors freehanding should be easy .
Shapen the bevel then when you finish put the back of the blade on the finishing stone to remove the burr.
Once you have done both blades (or one only)close the handles whilst pushing the blades apart until they are closed then squeeze the points together as you open them repeat 3/4 times and the gently close the blades they should feel smooth then.
I saw that tip on a youtube video, it was the one great thing I’ve found in the research so far. And this guy did things to those scissors that made me cringe, he was why people complain about a so called professional ruining their knife/scissors/bladed-do-dad.
Ah well, without guys like that, we wouldn’t look so good!
[quote quote=“LeoBarr” post=12829]Scissors are anywhere between 50-80Ëš(often each blade is a different angle[one may be serrated so leave it alone] and often the angle changes along the blade if you do manage to rig them up on the WE then use the dominant angle and also use a sharpie)I would not lower the angle what you may be able to do is stick a wedge or two behind the blade since you may well be able to drop the beveled side down enough so the higher settings on the WE will reach the bevel although you will need long vice bolts to achieve this I await by WE so I cannot exactly say if it will work.
I have an Edge Pro and there is a special scissor attachment although if they are large scissors freehanding should be easy .
Shapen the bevel then when you finish put the back of the blade on the finishing stone to remove the burr.
Once you have done both blades (or one only)close the handles whilst pushing the blades apart until they are closed then squeeze the points together as you open them repeat 3/4 times and the gently close the blades they should feel smooth then.[/quote]
Okay a friend brought over two scissors to sharpen. Both are made by “Wiss Inland”. One pair is really bulky looks like a linen type scissor, black handles, it’s old timer. The other pair are paper type with a finger “chole” on the bottom handle, looks like chrome handles till you get to the blade then carbon looking with patina. Old timer too, kinda cool. She actually cuts her hair with these? I really don’t think that is their intended purpose?
Okay the question is? Under the loupe the grind seems very coarse? Do you stay with coarse stones/files? Is there a rule of thumb? I am not sure what to do? I will tackle them if someone can answer this question?
Please and thank you,
Eamon
Curtis,
That is what I was trying to find out? What grit, where do you stop? :S I’m going to try the linen one’s tonight :unsure: Please say a prayer to the scissor Gods. :lol:
Thank you,
Eamon
Houston we have lift off! Lol :lol:
Everything went great. Took them apart Used the sharpie trick to tell every time I took off metal? Went from 200-600 diamonds. Put them back together. Then tried to cut bond paper? Success Stepped it up a notch and did the wet toilet paper test in different cutting lengths and they worked like a charm. :woohoo:
A big thank you to all who helped! B)
ps don’t you just love it when a plan comes together? :whistle:
Sounds good did you do them on the WE or just used the paddles from the WE?
I normally stop at 1200 grit on the EP although if I do hair shears I take them to 6000 grit tapes.
I had a smashing success as well.
I never even fooled with the angle gauge, I had to use a q-tip as an angle shim to get the scissors to an angle the WEPS could handle. Used the sharpie trick, and was off and running.
The trick for removal of the burr works great, and I did the back side/concave with just a little 1000 grit sandpaper for clean up.
To test, I used a single ply of toilet paper, and wow these are sharp. My mother in law is extremely happy, but her comment was…
" Once again you’ve given me something that’s so sharp I have to worry if it’s too sharp. first it was all the knives in the kitchen, then my purse knife…" It goes on and on
So if the angle is too high for the WEPS to handle, the shim worked great.
The only solution I have found for scissor sharpening was the " Twice As Sharp". I bought it from All Brands, and it cost about $300.00. It does an excellent job on all types of shears. except hair shears. Since I sharpen knives at farmers markets this is a service I needed to include…Bill
[quote quote=“LeoBarr” post=12960]Sounds good did you do them on the WE or just used the paddles from the WE?
I normally stop at 1200 grit on the EP although if I do hair shears I take them to 6000 grit tapes.[/quote]
Leo, I used the paddles. Per the thread Curtis sent me to. I stopped at 600 grit. I really had no idea where to start and end? :unsure: So I went with the thread. I now have the other pair to do. I am very seriously considering going up to 1200 grit seeing as you have had good luck with it? :whistle:
The thing that holds me back is the blades are a little loose and can’t be tightened anymore. :S I think what she is doing is locking the blades together the way she holds them? Then trims her hair. :ohmy: This is a little ol lady. I’m unsure of going higher that the blade will not gather her hair? What do you guys think?
Fred, I’m with Curtis, Q Tip?? I need a picture as well? :huh:
Thank you all,
Eamon
Assuming you can get the screw out could you find a nylon washer to put under the screw perhaps then you could torque it up more is it solely a machine screw or is there a nut on the other side .
I would normally start the scissors as high a grit as possible minimum 600 possible 1000 if the blades are in reasonable shape that is I would also include that with knives the steel is precious so the less we take off the better .
If they are to be used for hair I go to 6000 grit tape .
Remember sharpen to the angle that represents the largest span of the blade and the blades may well have different angles on them or one blade may have micro serrations if so leave that one alone just do the other blade.
Good luck with them.
I would suggest putting possible a small wooden wedge behind the blade so it is angled towards the paddle allowing for a higher sharpening angle I would use a wooden lollipop stick or something similar since they are easy to shave to the required shape then you could label it for use another time.
Since I do not yet have my WE this is theoretical but having drawn it it looks as if you would need wedges both sides of the blade.
It will depend on how wide the WE vice jaws go whether it is possible or not.
Here is a diagram of how I would try to do it - if it works great otherwise you will have to wait for Clay . The wedges could be made out of an eraser since it is easy to cut.
Stepped it up a notch and did the wet toilet paper test in different cutting lengths and they worked like a charm. :woohoo:
