I’ve got a Takeda yanagiba (actually a sujihiki, since it’s sharpened evenly). See below.
It’s a great knife and a great brand. However, it doesn’t feel quite right. I think it may be too thick behind the edge.
What do you guys think? Please keep in mind that this is a proteine slicer, so a little bit of thickness behind the edge is not too bad.
It does look a shade broad I would thin it incrementally I think it could do with thinning where the finish changes extending the Shenogi line up a bit . It may be that the Shenogi could almost be doubled in height ideally this Shenogi should be a convex blend down to the micro bevel but it is not bad there as you say but the Shenogi needs the work .
But I would do it gradually over numerous sharpenings safer that way and Shenogi work is hard work and slow and not really suited to the WE since the knife’s Shenogi should or is already convex and also curves towards the kissaki there are way too many curves to emulate with the WE I think it would spoil the performance of the knife if you did it on the WE the micro bevel will be fine on the WE but the rest needs to be done on Japanese bench stones .
It is beautiful work to do when on the shenogi and the more finish you put on it the better the knife will slip through fish or meat.
If it were mine I would refine the shenogi right up to 16k on my Shaptons but I stress do a little at a time easy to take more off but impossible to put back.
With that thick behind the edge, it probably will be wedgy for firm & crusty cooked roast. A lazy fat KU, need some trimming 
[quote quote=“LeoBarr” post=15832] the rest needs to be done on Japanese bench stones .
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Could this be done with various grits of sandpaper? Kinda like the way I use sandpaper over a mousepad to put convex edges on my Busses?
Ken
Absolutely in fact my graduation through sharpening included sandpaper on a mousepad you should be able to get grits up to 3k at least use wet & dry probable start with 120 it will be a labour of love but do it incrementally as said.