Cliff Stamp has posted elsewhere that these stones definitely benefit from lapping. Today I worked on my set and it made a huge difference. You can easily use the diamond stones in your set to lap your ceramics and depending on which grit you use to finish, you can dramatically alter the way the stone performs. My coarse Micro-Fine stones were more coarse than I wanted at the moment, so I took them all the way up to the 1000# diamonds, progressing from the 100# stones up the line. I also have a 3um diamond bench stone that I used to finish and the coarse Micro-Fines were like a whole different set of stones. I can see where there might be times when I want to add a little texture back to them to give certain knives a little bite, so I’ll experiment with lapping on different grit stones and see what comes of it.
Clay, This is very helpful. I did not really notice the aggressiveness of the mirco-fine ceramics. I will try it with the higher grit diamond stones. I am very satisfied with the micro-fine ceramics. For my purposes they produce excellent results. If the micro-fine ceramics had been available 6 months ago, I may not have been so determined to buy the Choseras and Shaptons, but I like them all for different reasons. The micro-fine ceramics are the best value (IMO).
Ralph
Ralph,
So are you going from the 1000 grit diamonds to the micro-fine ceramic paddles, or are you using something between them first?
Was just wondering why the lapping progression vs. just lapping on just the finer stone, or maybe just the 1000 & 3um?
How much time on each stone did you spend? I’m guessing this doesn’t take much?
Any idea how much of the ceramic (thickness) this used?
Thanks!
cbw
Steven, After the 1000 grit diamond stone, I use the super-fine ceramics and then the micro-fine. I have not yet tried going directly to the micro-fine ceramics from the 1000 grit. I will give it a try this weekend.
Ralph
I started lapping with the 800 grit and it was going well but there were a couple high spots so I decided to knock those off with the coarse stones. I didn’t measure before I started and now I wish I had, but I can’t imagine I removed more the a couple thousandths judging from the material that came off.
Was just wondering why the lapping progression vs. just lapping on just the finer stone, or maybe just the 1000 & 3um?
How much time on each stone did you spend? I’m guessing this doesn’t take much?
Any idea how much of the ceramic (thickness) this used?
Thanks!
cbw[/quote]
I wanted to do a couple more knives before I posted this. I could tell the coarse Micro-fine was more coarse than rated… but as an alternative to lapping, I’ve been using it after the 1000g diamond, which seems to set up the edge better for the rest of the ceramics. So. I’ll go Coarse Micro-fine. –> 1200 –> 1600 ceramics –> Fine Micro-fine… then onto leather (if desired). 
Just thought I’d present an alternate use that I’m liking.
That’s exactly what I was doing before I lapped my coarse Micro-fine stones and it worked great. Now that they’re all smoothed out, I’ll have to see if it still works well in that progression.
[quote quote=“cbwx34” post=4127]I wanted to do a couple more knives before I posted this. I could tell the coarse Micro-fine was more coarse than rated… but as an alternative to lapping, I’ve been using it after the 1000g diamond, which seems to set up the edge better for the rest of the ceramics. So. I’ll go Coarse Micro-fine. –> 1200 –> 1600 ceramics –> Fine Micro-fine… then onto leather (if desired).
Just thought I’d present an alternate use that I’m liking.[/quote]
what is “um” and how does it relate to grit numbers? I.E. how many um’s to a grit or a 100 grit for example or perhaps vice versa? What grit would a stone be to equal a “um” or a fixed quantity of “um’s”?
Thanks.
Scott
Grit Comparison ChartGood question Scott. um is the abbreviation for Micron. Here is a chart that shows how they all compare:
[quote quote=“ScottSherman” post=4803]what is “um” and how does it relate to grit numbers? I.E. how many um’s to a grit or a 100 grit for example or perhaps vice versa? What grit would a stone be to equal a “um” or a fixed quantity of “um’s”?
Thanks.
Scott[/quote]
O.K. So I think I’m picking up what you are putting down, however I am a visual learner. Is there a video on lapping the ceramics? Should I lap similar to how one would flatten a Chosera water stone, I certainly do not want to ruin my new micro fines and I have a set of fine stones coming so a little education here would be helpful.
I know this is a somewhat older post but I was wondering if the lapping was just for initial usage and getting the aggressiveness of the ceramics right or if they will need to be flattened like natural stones do?
It’s mostly the initial usage and to get the aggressiveness right.
What Curtis said… the ceramic stones are VERY hard. I was suprised and how much I had to work them on a coarse diamond plate to see any difference at all. They should do many , many knives before you would have any dishing.
If you meaure them with a traight edge, and they need flattening, be prepared for some hard work.
BTW, I tried the crosshatching trick to indicate when the stone is flat with a permananet marker. Apparently it penetrates the ceramic.. I never have been able to get it out of the one stone. If you are going to do this, use a pencil…
Phil
Thanks guys!
I was actually wondering if it was just my imagination since my course ultra-fine seemed to be courser than the 1600 stones. I’ll try lapping them on my DMT extra fine unless you guys think something courser is necessary.
"My coarse Micro-Fine stones were more coarse than I wanted at the moment, so I took them all the way up to the 1000# diamonds, progressing from the 100# stones up the line. I also have a 3um diamond bench stone that I used to finish and the coarse Micro-Fines were like a whole different set of stones. "
Is what Clay said that he did… in the first post in this thread…
I used the DMT coarse, then DMT fine plates. It seems to me that this put the stone in the corrct sequence with the Other ceramics. It looks that way in the photos I took as well.
I think that if you just use the DMT extra fine plate, you will have to work the stones for quite awhile to make a significant change. You can always try and see how they work on steel.
Phil
[quote quote=“PhilipPasteur” post=7240]"My coarse Micro-Fine stones were more coarse than I wanted at the moment, so I took them all the way up to the 1000# diamonds, progressing from the 100# stones up the line. I also have a 3um diamond bench stone that I used to finish and the coarse Micro-Fines were like a whole different set of stones. "
Is what Clay said that he did… in the first post in this thread…
I used the DMT coarse, then DMT fine plates. It seems to me that this put the stone in the corrct sequence with the Other ceramics. It looks that way in the photos I took as well.
I think that if you just use the DMT extra fine plate, you will have to work the stones for quite awhile to make a significant change. You can always try and see how they work on steel.
Phil[/quote]I have all of those (course and fine are a double sided) so I will start with the course and run the gamut checking them after the fine and if needed go on to the extra fine.
Dunno what a gamut check is, but sounds interesting…
Gamut: an entire range or series
It’s not a gamut check. He means he will go through all of the stones, then check the results.
Thank you, sir! That is precisely what I meant.