Made it to the shops today and found “my” solution to the diamond and steel dust getting into the ball joints.
I have replaced the original (exposed) ball joints with fully enclosed versions.
It is a cup and ball principle rather than a ball and race.
In the original the race is made of nylon and I figure it may wear if dust gets into it.
We have all been searching for boots or similar to cover them without much luck.
So why not replace the joints with ones that are designed to be dust proof already?
Pic 1!
Also in addition, the arrows “A” (below) show a rubber grommet I put on the arms.
I removed the original lock nut.
Figured I don’t need the nut as loctite will keep the arms tight in the thread.
This will absorb some of the horrible bang you get when you bottom out the paddle.
As for the ball joints, I am very happy with the result and cheap enough.
They are called “heavy duty”, sealed and lubricated.
Very smooth, not at all tight like the originals.
There is no allen key hole in the end of the stud for adjustment.
But I can use a spanner on the other side if I want.
I’m not using the micro-adjust anyway.
Another pic shows how well the seal protects the joint.
Put it on wrong way around to get a clear view.
[quote quote=“Mikedoh” post=6827]Nice one BillyB.
Does the stud screw off the ball . Wondering if a swap with original is possible.
Never mind on my wonderings. Just realized keeping ball from turning would be tough[/quote]
It is a heavy duty version of the original.
Easy five minute swap, there is a place for a spanner at the front.
Only two faces though. (not a hex)
The guy in the bearing shop said the allen socket in the end of the original is specialty.
edit - I’m going to put a thumb screw on the end of that stud!
Drill a larger hole part way into the “L” bracket from the outside, so a slightly larger female socket will fit over it, then …
That looks awesome! The socket in the end is custom done after the fact. The process is pretty simple: first drill a hole, then use a broach to cut out the corners.
edit - For anyone searching for one. (or two)
They are called Ball Joint Rod Ends (Female) - 1/4"-28 UNF.
Best option would be from a bearing stockist.
Very commonly used in automotive and machinery applications.
Retail price was $10AU each.
The guy had them on a rack in the front of the store, sells them often.
Forgot to add for Clay; this heavy duty ball joint plus 50 pounds of lead weights should solve your problem of the base lifting up while stropping. :silly:
[quote quote=“Geocyclist” post=6864]Great write up and photos Chris. Thanks.
Did the grommets come with the ball end or where they separate? [/quote]
No, just another reaction from an action, they are 1/4" x 1/2" cable grommets, from a hardware store.
I forget to allow for these differences, as long as the meaning is the same I guess?
But be careful with the word “root” over here. :P:
edit - Google root and Australia to see what I mean.
Ha, the ball joints are light in weight, very smooth also.
They are alloy, where the the original are steel with a nylon bearing race.
(HD alloy= 34grams and steel= 30grams.)
It might not be obvious in my pics, but my board is about 3" thick and weighs 3.5kg.
Unfortunately the new crossbar hangs over the sides now, but I’m happy! :cheer:
Another thing I notice, the amount of resistance to rotate the stud is a “lot” less.
So if I was to use the micro-adjust with the HD ball joint it is a much better experience.
Now, to get mine broached.
edit- Might put those 8/32 thumb screws to good use put them it the end of the stud.
Super strength loctite.
That’s a great looking setup,and very clever execution, and I want to try it out myself. I take it to make it work I will still need a PPII setup, right? Then I can get the rods, pivot arms, and the new angle notch rods as part of the kit, right? So the heavy duty rods, rubber boot covers, grommets would just be the add-ons… I like it!
This looks great. Unfortunately English is not my first language and I didn’t spend long enough Downunder. Even with the pics I cannot make out exactly what I see.
Is a ball joint rod end simply a piece of rubber to protect the ball joint? Or does it have other, more common, applications? And what is a grummet? Even my dictionary doesn’t know the word…
And how did you find the exact sizes? They look as if they fit very well.
This looks great. Unfortunately English is not my first language and I didn’t spend long enough Downunder. Even with the pics I cannot make out exactly what I see.
Is a ball joint rod end simply a piece of rubber to protect the ball joint? Or does it have other, more common, applications? And what is a grummet? Even my dictionary doesn’t know the word…
And how did you find the exact sizes? They look as if they fit very well.[/quote]
The ball joint rod end is a full assembly replacing the stock ball joint on the upgraded system.
A grommet (“o” not “u”) is commonly used to protect wires/cables through a thin substrate, such as wires through a firewall of your car. They actually have many uses beyond that but that is one of the more common.
Hope this helps.
You would need to already have a PPII or the ball joint arms upgrade kit.
All I have done is replace one part with another identical but heavier duty part, the ball joint.
Not that it needs to be “heavy duty”, but it encloses the ball bearing totally, thus keeping out any abrasive dust.
It is also a much smoother experience. (it comes with the rubber cover)
The “grommet” is simply something else I bought to slide over ther arms to absorb any shock from bottoming out the paddles (stones)
A grommet is not designed for the purpose here.
It is meant to shield electrical cable from cuts while going through a firewall etc.
Commonly used in vehicle wiring.
I’m not saying the original is not up to the task or will have issues, basically I have upgraded the upgrade.
[quote quote=“mark76” post=6891]Chris,
This looks great. Unfortunately English is not my first language and I didn’t spend long enough Downunder. Even with the pics I cannot make out exactly what I see.[/quote]
Thanks for the clarification and really appreciate the work up on the upgrade. That would be a real fun DIY project once I’ve purchased the PPII upgrade kit.