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Marc,
You bet! Let me take the questions one at a time.
I set the bevel angle mostly between 17-20 dps but I have had a couple of kitchen knives down to 15 dps. It all depends on the blade steel and grind. Unless I’m asked to put a specific edge angle on the knife, I try to match the existing bevel with a sharpie if there is one. If the blade needs to have a new bevel set, I usually go with 18 or 19 dps for EDC work knives.
I normally take three readings before and after sharpening. Again, based on the blade it would be forward toward the tip, at the belly, and the rear toward the handle. How I do it is to make a sharpie line from the edge to the spine in three places. This way I have an approximation of where I tested before I sharpened the sharpie line off the edge.
I’ve learned to start with the highest grit that will get me to the apex in a reasonable amount of time. The 200 diamond is where I try to start. If I have to go to the 100 it takes me a lot more time at the 20o to remove the previous scratch pattern. There have been a handful of blades that needed the 50-80 grit. I was basically sharpening a spoon when I started. The one knife I really remember scored over 1200 grams of force (gf) before sharpening on the tester.
My grit progression is 200, 400, 600, 800 diamond. At each paddle change I use the angle gauge to ensure my angle doesn’t change. Also, I slide the sharpie down the middle of the edge. I use a red sharpie as it is very visible under the microscope. Until all the red is gone from the edge of the edge, I keep working that grit. Sometimes I find I have to change the fine adjustment on one side or the other because I’m not getting to the apex. Some blade grinds don’t clamp very well and the blade shifts a little as I sharpen.
Once I finish with the 800 diamond I switch to the Chosera spray and go stones. I really wanted the Shapton glass stones but I was told they quit making them for the WE. For the Chosera paddles I finish with 400 and 800. I had to make a stainless steel strip to hook on to the plastic paddle edge so my angle cube could be used.
Over the many knives I’ve sharpened, I’ve found that looking straight down at the apex with the microscope tells me when I’m done. If there is no light reflected off the apex, I’m at or better than razor sharp. On the tester, it will show less than 150 and most times => 100 gf. Some knives just won’t be cooperative. My PM2 in S110V still shows a sliver of reflected light and the tester shows 120-160.
FYI, if you use the clips the reading will be about 20% lower than using the ATF. If you wiggle the clip ears a little to reduce the tension you will get much closer the ATF reading. That’s why the clips are not certified by the BESS. If you just want a relative change from start to finish they work just fine without the wiggle.[attachment file=“20180809_195936[1].jpg”]
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Hope that wasn’t too much info.
Ed K.