I had a convex 12" Damascus knife come in. It had bad nicks nearly 1/8 deep and rusted. I bought a Worksharp Ken Onion sharpener to knock down blades witch are super dull. I noticed this Damascus knife had a concave knife. After 30 mins of trying to get a burr I decided to hit it with the worksharp. That helped start an edge and get me to a bur however, Should I have kept the blade as a concave edge? I could have used the worksharp to do that. Is it possible to do it with the WE? Here is the result [wpdatachart id=]
I see you have a Gen 3 Pro. I did a Youtube video a while back that shows one method of doing convex edges on a Gen 3 Pro. In the video I use half-step increments to produce the convex edge. After subsequent tests, I found you can do full-step increments with pretty much the same results. See the video here.
I use 2 step increments but then I use “Kangaroo Leather” to help blend the steps together.
Thank you for your replies. I will watch the video and give it a try
<p class=“p1”>What do you think of this idea for sharpening conveyed knives? I’m thinking of loading a series of strops with diamond pastes. You can get them at coarser grits, starting at least at about 40 microns (about 400 grit or lower).<span class=“Apple-converted-space”> </span>I would go through a progression and I’m thinking I will go to the stones for 2200 and 3000 to get a precise edge (I don’t think that fine grit will reprofile the edge significantly and Clay suggests a micro bevel on cones edges anyway). And then I’ll finish with the usual high grit strops (I don’t go beyond 3.5)</p>
<p class=“p1”>These are hard use knives, not pocket knives (Bark River Bushcraft types).</p>
<p class=“p1”>Could this be a practical solution to sharpening convex edges on the WE?</p>
Using strops is certainly another way to do it and would probably do it a lot faster once you work out the progression. I’ve drifted away from strops because of their tendency to get cross-contaminated. Once a strop is contaminated, there’s almost no way to return it to its prior condition. Diamond stones and films can usually be cleaned to restore their pristine condition. Films may take a little more scrubbing and if not clean can be easily replaced. For the last year or so, I’ve been finishing my edges with diamond paste (1.5 and 1.0 micron) on a hardwood platen (I use maple). Because of the hard substrate, I don’t have to alter the angle to account for “apex wrap.” I could just as well use diamond film, but the hardwood is much more durable.